12-Day Shikoku Itinerary – Ultimate Road Trip Guide to Traveling Japan’s Hidden Gem

Are you ready for an adventure that takes you off the beaten path in Japan? Look no further than Shikoku, a hidden gem that promises to leave you in awe. This stunning island, tucked away from the bustling crowds, offers a unique blend of natural wonders, rich cultural heritage, and tranquil landscapes. Get ready to immerse yourself in the enchanting beauty of Japan’s smallest main island on this 12-day Shikoku itinerary. 

By using this guide, you’ll learn the intricacies of how a road trip around the island of Shikoku can look like. Through my personal experiences, you’ll get deeper insight into this region than anywhere else.

My Shikoku Journey

Knowing that I’d be coming from a week in Tokyo and having done the Golden Route through our 12 day Japan itinerary, I asked experts I knew, where they’d recommend if I wanted to somewhere completely off-the-beaten-path. Shikoku was mentioned a few times and what I heard intrigued me.

From there, I started planning a journey through somewhere that I could tell hadn’t been discovered by the masses. Online information was sparse and not well consolidated. Thankfully Shikoku Tours was there to help fill in some of the gaps but I was determined to do it fully independently.

Digging in, I quickly realized that there are a few primary ways Shikoku is explored:

1. Pilgrimage – Known as the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage or Shikoku Hendo, this involves travellers centering their trip around visiting many of the sacred Buddhist sites on the circular-shaped route. Most don’t do all 88 but do a selection of the highlights and combine walking with public transit, go with a private guide, or do special bicycle tours.
2. Cycling – The second major interest in Shikoku is cycling, especially with the Shimanami Kaido route where you get to bike on Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, crossing the Seto Inland Sea. You can do day trips or multi-day cycling circuits.
3. Road trip – Although not as well documented, it was clear from the outset that relying on public transportation would not be efficient. I ended up opting for this because I felt like it was closer to my interests and would allow me the flexibility to see everything in a neat 12 days.

I certainly didn’t expect to be doing a full-on road trip loop in Japan of all places, but I have to say that I was very happy with how it turned out.

This part of the trip was solo after spending a month with Chantelle in Hokkaido and Tokyo.

How to use this Shikoku itinerary

We created this itinerary with you, our readers, in mind. We put down as much detail as we can so that all of the information is one place. From there, you get to use it as is or make tweaks based on your own schedule and interests.

This is a road trip version of a Shikoku itinerary so many of the specifics relate to being able to drive from location to location. That said, we’ve tried to share alternative details where we can.

Pay particular attention to our boxes called “What you need to know”. These extract essential details about important points of interest and activity, while also injecting our own observations. Japan is one of those places where you can easily get caught off-guard if you don’t know about specific rules and quirks.

We also make sure we summarize every day and each of those have links to either review pages or where to book specific activities. Lastly, we have our trip map near the end of the article, which is great for the visual planners out there.

At Going Awesome Places, we are obsessed about building travel itineraries because that’s how we do our trip planning and it’s the kind of detail that is hard to find these days. You’ll see a lot of similarities with other ones we’ve created such as the Adventure in the Ozarks of Missouri, Easter Island itinerary, 10 days in Patagonia, and classic Egypt itinerary.

Where is Shikoku?

So where the heck is Shikoku? We’re sure that even if you ask 10 or even 100 foreign tourists in Japan about Shikoku, most would give you a blank stare.

Shikoku is a secret that you’re going to be glad to be in on.

Japan is comprised of 4 main islands – Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu, and Shikoku. Shikoku is the smallest and least populated and that’s precisely why it’s unlike anywhere else in Japan.

The name Shikoku comes from the word shi (four) and koku (region) and as you guessed, there are 4 prefectures on the island: Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima. To the south is the Pacific Ocean and to the north is the Seto Inland Sea.

Up until the mid-1980s, you could only get here by boat but luckily, modern engineering connected it to the mainland through 3 massive bridges. Then you have airports that serve each prefecture in the cities of Tokushima, Kochi, Matsuyama, and Takamatsu.

It’s worth mentioning that while this is a Shikoku itinerary, it does overlap with other regions. For one, there’s Setouchi region which covers all of the islands in the Seto Inland Sea and all adjacent coastal areas. The trip also ends in Okayama and this is outside of the island of Shikoku but is part of Setouchi.

As you’ll see really soon, there’s a real sense of mystery in Shikoku and with that, the excitement of uncovering the secret for yourself.

The Best 12-Day Shikoku Itinerary

Itinerary Day 1 – Feel The Energy of Tokushima

You will hit the ground running in Tokushima with full day of adventure and cultural immersion. Ride the Bizan Ropeway for stunning city views, witness the captivating Naruto whirlpools on a boat tour, and soak in the vibrant atmosphere of an Awa Odori dance performance in the evening.

Arrive in Tokushima

For this Shikoku itinerary, we recommend starting in the city of Tokushima and working your way around in clock-wise fashion. Tokushima is also a great place to start as it’s not overwhelming and quite easy to get around on foot.

You’ll most likely fly into Tokushima Awaodori Airport (TKS) which is primarily serviced by domestic airlines. In my case, I flew in directly from Tokyo’s Haneda International Airport via Japan Airlines.

After you land, you’ll catch the local bus which will take you right to the center of town, Tokushima Station.

TIP: At the far end of the airport is the bus ticket vending machine. The fare for Tokushima Station is ¥600 for adults and ¥300 for children. You can pay by cash or IC card only. Remember to tap “Receipt” to get a receipt printed.

First order of business – drop your off your bags at your hotel, Daiwa Roynet Hotel Tokushima, which is conveniently right next to the station. Re-organize your daypack if you need to because you won’t be back until the afternoon.

See Tokushima From Above

One of the best ways to get oriented is at the top of one of the symbols of Tokushima – Mt. Bizan. At the summit, you’ll see how the city is situated at the mouth of the Yoshino River, pointing northeast.

Sharing the same building as where you’ll be watching the Awa Odori performance in the evening is the Bizan Ropeway. The view from the top gives you a stunning overlook of the area and as far out as Awaji Island and Kii Peninsula on a clear day.

In addition to the main viewing platform, there’s a large kaleidoscope art installation, a Burmese pagoda honoring the soldiers from World War 2, and an expansive park of cherry blossom trees.

Cruise into the Naruto Whirlpools

Head back to the main station and take the 1-hour long bus out to the far northeast corner where a natural phenomenon of tidal whirlpools can be found in the Naruto Strait.

In this narrow passageway of water measuring 1.3 km (0.81 miles), massive amounts of water move in and out of the Seto Inland Sea twice a day creating a difference in water levels between the sea and the ocean. This causes water to rush through the channel at high speeds, and at specific areas, spirals in the water.

One of the best ways to see the Naruto Whirlpools is to join a sightseeing boat cruise. The Wonder Naruto races large groups of tourists to the Onaruto Bridge every 30 minutes. Standing at the edge of the boat, you patiently wait for swirls to form – some are small and some gush with intensity.

After the cruise, you can either check out more of the area (observation decks, park, Uzo-n-Michi Walkway, and Otsuka Museum of Art) or head back to the city and check into your room.

Eat at a mouth-watering local izakaya

Local recommendations are the best. Domannaka is a short walk away from your hotel and features mostly locally-sourced ingredients and dishes that the region is best known for. You have to try their yakitori platter (depicted above), seared bonito (katsuo no tataki), and lotus root.

What Tokushima is best known for is Awa Odori, something you might’ve noticed not-so-subtly featured throughout the city.  This is perhaps Japan’s most famous dance festival that is said to have originated from the celebration when Tokushima Castle was completed.  While the official festival is performed in mid-August, the other way to see a performance is at the Awa Odori Kaikan, the same building as the Bizan Ropeway.

This 50 minute performance is the best showcase of what the Awa Odori festival is all about.  Accompanied by musicians, you’ll get to see men, women, children, and elders perform the traditional dance.  You’ll see and feel the energy, along with the intricacies of the dress of Awa Odori during the show. 

The show is also quite interactive, with a segment in the middle dedicated to having the audience learn some of the basic moves of the dance. At the end of the night, the entire audience is invited to get down to the theater floor to join the dancers, culminating in a fun and immersive night.

Itinerary Day 2 – Enter Hidden Iya Valley

It’s time to get the road trip started. You’ll start off going blue over the time-honored tradition of indigo dyeing. From there, you’ll drive into the heart of Iya Valley where you’ll quickly realize that you’re in a mystical place like no other in Japan.

Make your own indigo dyed creation

Shikoku is home to many traditional crafts and one of them is indigo dyeing. This is why you’ll see plenty of indigo-dyed goods along your journey.

Aizome refers to the traditional practice of indigo dyeing and there’s no better place to see how it works than to go to the region where the industry thrived for generations in Wakimachi and more specifically, the Udatsu Townscape.

Located in a charming and historically wealthy town thanks to indigo, is the Yamauchi Studio which preserves the tradition by teaching visitors how the dyeing process works by creating your very own handmade item.

What you’ll love about this experience is that you’ll come out with your own souvenir that was created using traditional indigo dyeing techniques. Your instructor will also allow you to design your own pattern. I thought this was the most interesting part, involving either marbles, special folding techniques, and lots of elastic bands.

Test your vertigo on the double vine bridges

Next begins your journey into Iya Valley. The small towns along the Yoshino River begin to disappear and are replaced with seemingly impenetrable emerald hills as you weave corner to corner and unknowingly passing around Mount Tsurugi.

Tucked away on the far eastern end of Iya Valley is Oku-Iya Niju Kazurabashi or the Double Vine Bridges. These are two of the last 3 remaining vine bridges in Iya Valley, where there were once 13.

The bridges are said to be connected to the story of the Heike Clan that took refuge in this area and built these as a way to get through the valley but could also cut them down if they were invaded.

What’s unique about this location is that there are two bridges, the larger one being male and the smaller being female. Crossing each is an adventure on its own as the bridges sway and the gaps between the planks of wood below are enormous. There’s also a hand-powered rope and trolley that you can also try if they’re operational.

What really sets this area apart are its tranquil and untamed surroundings with the trickling of the river below, the calm rustling of the forrest, and whispers of a nearby waterfall. It also helps that this is far-less visited part of Iya Valley because it’s not as accessible as the one you’ll visit tomorrow.

Visit the oddly charming scarecrow village

Driving deeper into the valley, you’ll come across a sleepy riverside village that seems normal at first, until you realize that the people you see hanging around aren’t people. The population of Nagoro consists of life-sized scarecrows and outnumber their human counterparts 10 to 1.

The Nagoro “Scarecrow” Village was started by Tsukimi Ayano, a resident that returned to her home village after living in Osaka for most of her life. It started with a scarecrow with her father’s likeness on her family farm. This evolved to becoming effigies of former residents to keep the spirit of the village alive.

The best way to appreciate all of Tsukimi-san’s work is to park your car and walk the village and see the vibrant population of scarecrows that are waiting at bus stops, working the fields, going to school, or simply hanging out.

Explore traditional thatched-roof houses

As you emerge from the mist and the twisty roads of the valley, you’ll enter into true heart of Iya Valley which consists of small hamlets that cling to the edge of the mountain slopes. It’s here that you’ll see enduring examples of ancient houses that date back well over 200 years.

The first you can visit is Koune-ke Historic House. Formerly of the Koune family, this is one of the simplest homes you’ll see, consisting of one room, garden, front space, and toilet in the middle front of the house. This is a small house so you can take a quick peek inside.

The other you’ll have time for is Nagaoke-ke Historic House. At an altitude of 610 meters (2001 feet) on a south-facing slope of Ochiai Village is a prime example of an upper-class clan of the village, featuring an asymmetrical 6-room floor plan. After taking off your shoes, you’re free to walk around. Make sure to ask the staff to show you the potato storage cellar accessed by a hidden hatch.

NOTE: Nagaoke-ke Historic House closes at 4PM.

Check into your traditional farmhouse

If you fancy staying in a living museum and getting a feel for what traditional Iya life is like, you have to do several nights in a restored farmhouse with jet-black beams, 130-year-old red-pine floors, sliding doors, and classic decor.

Your stay at Kouya is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Originally a tobacco farm in the hamlet of Kubo, this house has been kept within the family and now provides a farm stay experience for visitors by combining unique lodging with local-style meals and hands-on activities.

2 nights in Kouya are an absolute must. Hosts, Shintsuke-san and Mari-san welcomed me with open arms and allowed me to truly unwind and relax in this multi-room home that I had all to myself.

The best part are their dinners where they are slow cooked in the traditional way in their large iori floor hearth. Using locally-sourced ingredients, you’ll be treated to an aromatic feast for the senses. In additional to a wide variety of small dishes and rice cooked in the traditional way, you’ll get to try specialties such as Hirara-Yaki (wall of miso past encloses a stew of amego fish, tofu and vegetables), amego fish grilled around charcoal flame, and a hearty oden (pot of fish cake stew).

Itinerary Day 3 – Uncover Iya Valley Secrets

Iya Valley is often called one of the “three most remote places in Japan”. By being cut off from the rest of the country for so long, you’re treated to more examples of Iya Valley’s old world charm and a place teeming with natural wonders.

Tranquil breakfast around the hearth

Start your day by enjoying your your platter of numerous surprises for breakfast in peace. From the open sliding door, you’ll be able to watch the veil of fog lift from the valley.

For coffee lovers like myself, Shintsuke-san also offered to make a fresh pot of coffee for me the enjoy while sitting on their traditional wood veranda.

Get the best view of Ochiai

There are so many incredible photographs of Ochiai Village so when I asked the farmhouse host where I should go, he pointed on a part of the map that I never would have thought to have looked. This is on our Shikoku trip planning map.

The Ochihai Village Viewpoint is a well-built platform and provides a brilliant view of the historic houses, hillside farm plots, and switchback roads.

Learn Iya Valley’s history and visit a samurai house

One of the best ways to learn more about region is to visit the Higashi-Iya Museum of Local History and Folklore (10AM – 4PM, closed on Wednesdays and weekends Dec to Mar, ¥410 adults, ¥100 child) . They have a comprehensive display of artifacts collected from all over the valley.

Thanks to their bilingual signage in English and Japanese, you’ll want to spend more time here to get a better appreciation of Iya Valley’s rich history. You’ll also learn the fascinating story of the Heike Samurai that took refuge here to hide from those that were pursuing them.

In connection to that story, you’ll drive over to the Bukeyashiki Kita-ke Historic House. This is by far the largest house you’ll visit. It was residence of the Kita Clan and built by the samurai headman of Oeda, a descendant of the feudal lord Kita Rokurosaburo.

From 9AM to 5PM (Apr 1 – Nov 30), this samurai residence is open to visitors (¥310 adults, ¥100 children) where you’ll be able to walk through its numerous rooms, see an example of samurai armor, marvel at its brilliant architecture, and also walk to its 800 year-old cedar in the garden.

Cross another legendary vine bridge

Take advantage of the third vine bridge of Iya Valley. Now that you’ve had some practice with two so far, you’ll hopefully be able to cross Iya-no-Kazurabashi Vine Bridge with the swagger of Lara Craft or Indiana Jones. Not so much in my case as I clumsily staggered from plank to plank.

When you’re here, you can’t help but be at awe with a bridge constructed of 6 tones of vine cut from the valley’s forest, measuring at 45 meters long, 2 meters wide and hanging 14 meters above Iya River.

The difference between here and the Double Vine Bridge is that it’s a bit more of a tourist attraction with its big parking lots, large bus groups, and crowd control in the form of one-directional crossing.

Biwa Waterfall is just beyond the bridge’s exit. This is a modest 50 meter waterfall that’s surrounded by stone and lush greenery.

Explore the Old Iya Highway

As you go further along Route 32, you start driving through the lower reaches of the gorge and the road turns into the one-lane “Iya Highway”, twisting precariously high along the mountainside.

The two main sights to see are:

• Hinoji Bend/Iya River Bend Observation Point – Reminiscent of Horseshoe Bend in Arizona, Iya River below hooks around a mountain, creating a striking panorama.
• Peeing Boy Statue – At the precipice of a 200 meter drop is a daring statue of a boy. Built in 1968, this supposedly celebrates the boys that used to relieve themselves from this viewpoint. It’s a strange one that almost feels more of an homage to Manneken Pis in Brussels.

Soak in rejuvenating waters at the bottom of the valley

Your reward for making it this far is the soul southing power of Iya Onsen. There aren’t many other onsens like this where you descend to the bottom of a valley gorge by cable car in order to sink into a hot spring onsen with the swirl of the crisp mountain air around you and the tumble of Iya River in front.

While this is part of Hotel Iya Onsen, the secret is that they allow day guests which gives you access to the onsen below and also their indoor onsen. The water is alkaline pH water and rich in sulphur, meaning it’s great for relaxing and healing skin.

Head back to home sweet home

Even though you’ll be heading back to Kouya early, your day isn’t over! A stay in Iya Valley isn’t complete without a soba-making class.

Since Iya Valley is renowned for growing buckwheat, their soba is made of 100% buckwheat instead of a mix of buckwheat and flour. These noodles are also short and thick instead of its thinner cousin found in other parts of Japan.

In a separate building of the farm, you’ll make hand-made soba from scratch. Under Shintsuke-san’s guidance, you’ll kneed and roll out the dough, followed by hand chopping each noodle.

Afterwards, watch how rice is made using the traditional method of sticks and nurturing a flame with a bamboo blowing pipe.

Returning back to the farm house, you’ll be able to feast on the freshly made soba along with many other delights. As a solo traveler, it was nice to have Shintsuke-san join me for dinner where we tried our best to make conversation through Google Translate.

Itinerary Day 4 – From Yokai to Castles

For your fourth day of this Shikoku itinerary, with many of its secrets uncovered, it’s reluctantly time to say goodbye to Iya Valley but not before you stumble upon another unusual delight. Spend the rest of the day seeing the main highlights of Kochi before detouring out to Shimanto.

Learn about the yokai

So far you’ve been focusing on the center and east end of Iya Valley. On the western side Oboke Gorge where you’ll find emerald green waters, white rock faces, and jutting cliffs. It’s here that legendary yokai take over.

Monsters, goblins, and spirits from local folklore are collectively called yokai. In olden days, this region was treacherous for people to residents and visitors and that’s how legends of yokai began as a cautionary tale.

While there are certainly a lot of adventure activities to do in the area, we think it’s worth your time to visit the Yokai House, a museum that’s part of Roadside Station Oboke. Inside are a collection of hand-made sculptures of mythical monsters, each with their own story and attributes.

It certainly helps that there are English signs here as well. Also, if you’re into gems, there’s an adjoining gem museum that displays gemstones found locally and around the world.

Seek out yokai monster statues

Now that you’ve got a good idea of what the yokai are all about, grab a map from the Tourist Information Center inside the roadside station and walk or drive the Yokai Village and try to spot all of the statues along Route 272.

This trail mostly follows the paved road so you can either walk it or if you were tight on time like myself, drive it, and make stops along the way. To give you an idea, it’s a 2 km (1.24 mi) walk from the roadside station to Fujinosato Park.

We suggest you go as far as the Konaki-jiji statue (depicted on the right). This is a famous yokai monster featured in the manga comic, GeGeGe no Kitarō, by Shigeru Mizuki.

Climb the Kochi Castle

Exiting Iya Valley, you’ll drive into the heart of Kochi and visit your first of many incredible castles in Shikoku.

Kochi Castle was constructed in the 17th century and has the unique property of being the only one in Japan where both the original castle tower and main keep are intact. It’s also 1 of 12 castles in Japan where the main keep is intact.

On your visit, you’ll start from the perimeter of the castle grounds, enter through the main Otemon Gate, make your way around its towering stone walls, enter the main keep (honmaru), and finally all the way up the five-story castle tower (tenshu). At the very top, you’ll be able to walk the outside and get a full panoramic view of the mountains to the north and city to the south.

Enjoy views from Godaisan Park

For lunch, Hirome Market is just a short walk from the castle. As a food hall, there are plenty of stalls to choose from and tons of seating as well. If you haven’t yet, make sure to try katsuo no tataki or fire-seared bonito.

Back on the road, on the outskirts of the city is a small mountain and park that overlooks Kochi City. The best view is from the wooden observation deck within Godaisan Park where you’ll get a clear view of the city, Urado Bay, and the Kochi Plain.

While you won’t be doing much of the famed pilgrimage trail on this Shikoku itinerary, this is your opportunity to visit temple number 31 of 88 – Chikurinji Temple, which is within the grounds of Godaisan Park.

This ancient temple is surrounded by sweeping Japanese maples and is deeply serene as you walk its moss-covered approach, make your prayers at the main temple buildings, and walk up to the brilliantly red five-storied pagoda.

Make your way to Shimanto

If you look at the map, it seems unusual to detour all the way out to the city of Shimanto, especially when Nakatsu Gorge is in the other direction. It’ll all make sense tomorrow.

It’s a long 2 hour drive from Kochi to Shimanto so we recommend taking a break somewhere along the middle, such as the Roadside Station Nakatosa.

Once you arrive in Shimanto, check into Hotel Sunriver Shimanto, grab dinner at Ichimonya located in the same plaza, and get some early rest.

Itinerary Day 5 – Knife-Making in Shimanto

The theme of hidden secrets weaves its way around the entire 12-day Shikoku itinerary and Workshop Kurogane is a prime example of its many pleasant surprises. Nestled alongside the undisturbed natural beauty of Shimanto River, you’ll find the truly one-of-a-kind knife-making experience.

Forge your own kitchen knife

Deep in the Kochi mountains, Nobuya-san focuses on an ancient forging technique that dates back 1500 years. Taking from his own philosophy of connecting with nature and the old-style of living, he says “I focus on crafting one-of-a-kind knives that reflect my unique strengths and weaknesses, as well as the bold beauty of Kochi’s countryside that can’t be found anywhere else.”

The only reason why I knew about this activity was because it popped up on Viator during my trip planning process. My initial instincts were that this didn’t quite flow with how the itinerary was laid out, but I knew this was too good of an opportunity to pass up. I eventually re-organized what would’ve been an extra day in Kochi and included this experience.

The best way to get a feel for what the knife-making workshop is like is to watch our Shikoku video in the video player. You can also check out or 12 Days in Shikoku video on YouTube.

Your one day class starts with a raw piece of Blue Paper #2 steel. Step by step, you’ll create the shape of the blade and forging it through hammering, grinding, sanding, hardening, and tempering. The final steps involve the handle, name carving, and sharpening with a whetstone.

Beyond the meticulous knife-making steps, you’ll enjoy getting to know the master, Nobuya Hayashi and his apprentice, Jesse from Canada. Unlike most knife-making workshops, Nobuya-san doesn’t come from a line of knife-making masters but instead, inherited the workshop from his late master, after coming to him with a passion blacksmithing in his second life.

This is why you’ll find that there’s a refreshing modern approach to running a knife-making workshop here, whereas other workshops in Japan are typically more conservative and cookie-cutter. Here, you can make any type of knife you want and you get to be involved in quite a number of steps.

We believe that the Workshop Kurogane knife-making class is for everyone. You don’t need to be an expert craftsman or a connoisseur of Japanese knives. As long as you have an appreciation for learning the Japanese way of creation, enjoy being hands-on, and have use for a knife back home, this is a no-brainer.

The hard part about incorporating the blacksmithing experience is that you then have to make the 2.5 hour drive back to Kochi City. It’s not ideal, but this way, you have a much shorter drive the next day into Nakatsu Gorge.

Have dinner at a traditional Japanese restuarant in Ishoku Club Jyunya and have much-deserved rest at Comfort Hotel Kochi.

Itinerary Day 6 – Adventure in Nakatsu Gorge

Enter Nakatsu Gorge. You’ll once again delve into the mountains valleys of inner Shikoku, where pristine turquoise water, ancient moss, dramatic waterfalls, and giant boulders await.

Seek out canyoning thrills

We’re firm believers of seeking experiences that let you try something new or push your boundaries. In the case of Nakatsu Gorge Canyoning, you get both!

With Niyodo Adventure, you’ll be guided through an exclusive part of the Nakatsu Gorge that can only be explored by floating on your back, jump into the water, abseiling down cliffs, ducking behind waterfalls, and climbing giant rocks.

In the spray of the water and surrounded by ancient rock, you get another sense of Shikoku’s natural beauty. Add this to the growing list of secrets you’ve unlocked.

Hike the Nakatsu Gorge walking course

After you’ve dried up from your canyoning adventures, it’s time to head into Nakatsu Gorge on foot. This gives you a different perspective of surrounding nature because this time, you’ll be able to see more of the details of this magnificent scenery.

Meander your way through the well-built path and concrete bridges, following Nakatsu River as you pass by a shrine, statues of gods, massive fallen bounders, pools of Niyodo Blue, the ethereal surrounding forest, and eventually the thunder of Uryu Falls.

Lunch at Cha Cha Asurano

There aren’t too many restaurants in the area but one spot that’s highly recommended is Cha Cha Asurano. They specialize in delicious set meals accompanied with one of the region’s specialties – Sawatari tea.

Decompress at Seirannosato

It’s been a busy couple of days so it’s at this point in the itinerary where you have the rest of the day to recharge and relax. Enjoy the tranquility of being in the middle of nowhere.

Taking the winding mountain roads, you eventually make it to the town of Tsuno, lodged so deep in the Kochi mountains that even locals would have a hard time pin pointing exactly where it is on the map.

Your accommodations for the night is at the newly re-developed Seriannosato. Once a basic ryokan, they’ve built quite the remarkable modern lodge featuring 6 rooms, rooms with private patios that face Shimanto River, and a fusion of Western and Japanese design elements.

Dinner at Seirannosato

For dinner, enjoy a continuous stream of regional Kochi dishes that will have you completely satisfied at the end.

Itinerary Day 7 – Mighty Matsuyama Castle

It’s time to turn your attention to the north and Ehime prefecture where a legendary castle, mikan, and onsen await!

Breakfast at Seirannosato

Enjoy a filling breakfast at Seirannosato with a blend of a traditional Japanese breakfast set and also buffet items such as pastries, curry, toast, and more.

Make your way up to Matsuyama Castle

Matsuyama Castle is a historic Japanese castle situated atop Mount Katsuyama in Matsuyama City. It’s renowned for its architectural grandeur, strategic location, and layers of defense. Joining the likes of Kochi Castle, this is also on the list of the 12 castles that have come out of the post-feudal era intact.

Thanks to its steep hilltop location, the visit starts with a choice of taking either a chairlift or gondola to help with the ascent. From there, you’ll be winding your way through a labyrinth of gates, courtyard kill-zones, stone turrets, and impenetrable walls.

After passing through a line of cherry trees on the hill’s plateau, you’ll finally arrive at the main keep which houses the castle tower. As you climb the tour, make sure to enjoy the in-depth displays of feudal Japan including numerous katanas and armor on display, a samurai photo opportunity, and virtual reality station.

When you arrive at the top of the tower, relish how commanding of a position the castle has with its bird’s eye view of the city and also the Seto Inland Sea.

Before you go, have a refreshing cold glass of mikan juice and soft-serve.

What is mikan: From juice drinking stations, soft-serve toppings, cute bear mascots resembling oranges, and special Pocky Stick boxes, mikan is everywhere in Matsuyama. What’s the deal? Well, these are basically a type of mandarin orange and is extremely popular because they are easy to eat, is extremely sweet, and has a pleasant scent. The best quality Mikan comes from Ehime prefecture which is why you’ll see them everywhere.

After eating lunch at the popular Gansui Taimeshi Stand near the base of the castle, drive over to the neighbourhood of Dogo Onsen and check into Dogo Onsen Yamatoya Honten. This will allow you to park your car and settle in.

Dogo Onsen is the name of Japan’s oldest and most well-known hot springs and is surrounded by numerous bath houses and ryokans. In the past, the Imperial family came here to vacation but today, it’s the tourist hub of Matsuyama.

Check out the Botchan Train Museum

For 67 years from 1888, a tiny steam locomotive ran in the city. What makes it endearing is its lack of speed and inability to turn. In fact, since it’s not a circular route, train crew dressing as they did 100 years ago, have to to manually lift and rotate it around by hand. If you’re feeling nostalgic, you can ride in the carriage of a diesel-powered replica of the original Botchan Train. They run between JR Matsuyama, Shieki Station and Dogo (¥1,300 per per person).

Your schedule might not line up with the train or it might be suspended so if you’re interested, you can always head over to the Botchan Train Museum hidden inside a Starbucks which has more history, artifacts, and a full-sized replica.

Feel the energy of a local izakaya

Get fired up for a local-recommend spot for dinner, Yumenoya Hanare, where izakaya meets local specialties and Western fusion. If you’re feeling adventurous, make sure to try raw chicken which is completely safe to eat, mackerel that’s flame-seared in front of you, and the charcoal-flamed chicken.

Experience Dogo Onsen classics

Dogo Onsen is a true onsen town and when you’re here, do as the locals (actually mostly tourists these days) do. In your hotel room is a cotton yukata robe, outdoor slippers, and bag. It is perfectly acceptable, and in fact, encouraged, to wear your yukata around town.

The beauty of this neighbourhood is that everything is a short walk away and interconnected by several large covered shopping arcades. Drop by its many shops and make sure to drop by the Botchan Karakuri Clock which comes alive every hour from 8AM to 10PM (every 30 minutes on weekends and holidays).

A trip to Dogo Onsen wouldn’t be complete without going to its original onsen, Dogo Onsen Honkan. It’s said that this was the inspiration for Miyazaki’s “Spirited Away”.

After you’ve gotten a feel for what a traditional bathhouse is like, head back to your own hotel and go for another soak to experience some of the differences between one from ancient times to something a little more modern. You’ll be an onsen expert in no time.

Not a bad way to end the day!

Itinerary Day 8 – Memory Lanes Of Ozu and Uchiko

Go on an exquisite cultural journey in both the charming town of Ozu and the picturesque village of Uchiko. In Ozu, you’ll find the Ozu Castle and historic streets from a bygone era. Meanwhile, Uchiko captivates with its well-preserved machiya residences and traditional kabuki theater.

See a smaller but a unique Ozu Castle

You’ve been to two impressive castles up until this point so the bar is set quite high. Instead of having you visit another one that’s on the list of 12 intact keeps, we’re going a different direction.

Ozu Castle met a tragic end in 1888 when its keep was completely demolished because it was rapidly deteriorating. In a turn of events, the community rallied around a project to have it reconstructed in 2004 using old photographs, maps, and discovery of a model. However, instead of using concrete, they used primarily wood and traditional construction techniques. The result is a castle that looks like the original from the outside and inside as well.

Coming here in the morning, appreciate the fresh glaze on the golden timber, no iron nails in sight, and a beautiful view of the city and river below.

See where extraordinary architecture meets Japanese beauty

Next, you’ll drive over to an impressive villa overlooking Hijikawa River that took 4 years and 9000 artisans to build. Garyo Sanso Villa truly epitomizes the union of nature and tea. 

When you’re here, it’s not hard to slip back in time with its extraordinary architecture, fine details, and aesthetic concept of “wabi-sabi” that sees the beauty in imperfection.

Tap into the nostalgia of “Old Japan”

If you happen to be here on a Sunday, make sure to go to Pokopen Yokocho, a vintage flea market that’ll surely take you back in time.

It’s not a big area but you can’t help but be fascinated by countless displays of enamel advertising plates, retro toys, travel pamphlets from the 1950s, and simple kids games. In the back, there’s also a Showa period museum packed with more memorabilia from the time of Emperor Hirohito’s rule.

The adjacent red-brick building is Akarengakan, where you’ll find local-made crafts such as candles, washi paper, ceramics, and other mementos. The building also houses an exhibit about brick-making around the world and a museum featuring old movie cameras and model trains.

Slip back in time in Uchiko

Spend the rest of your afternoon exploring the town of Uchiko that seemingly froze in time from the Edo (1603-1867) and Meiji (1868-1912) periods. It’s a town made its mark in the 18th century with its thriving wax trade

Uchiko’s wealth and influence shows with its well-preserved streetscape where machiya, or traditional wooden townhouses, line the main thoroughfare where sharp eyes will notice the use of pale yellow lime plaster, wooden lattices, and dark kawara roof tiles. It’s truly an open-air museum here.

When you’re here, don’t miss the last remaining candle shop where you can see how they are continuing the tradition of making them using ancient techniques. You’ll also be able to see a real-life kabuki theater at Uchiko-za Kabuki Theater with its hand-powered stage elevators and rotating stage.

Above all, I was continuously reminded of Kyoto, not so much in visual similarities but I kept thinking “this is what Kyoto must’ve been like before mass tourism”. That’s why I loved Uchiko so much.

Indulge in the onsen one more time

Return back to Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen. Use this as free time to walk around Dogo Onsen, try other onsens such as Dogo Onsen Annex, or simply enjoy your own hotel’s onsen with its free snack and sake bar.

Itinerary Day 9 – Climb to New Heights in Kotohira

Start your day in Ehime Prefecture and end off in your final prefecture within Shikoku – Kagawa. Your main goal for today is to not only visit a legendary Shinto shrine but to also get some good cardio in.

See where mochi meets mikan

As you drive along the northern coast, drop by the confectionary shop, Seikodo located in Imabari. They have a long and storied history but their recent claim to fame is their mochi-wrapped mikan or their full Japanese name, ichifuku hyakka marugoto mikan daifuku.

When it first came out, it was laughed off as something that would never work but they proved their naysayers wrong and are now a hit all across Japan.

What makes it so delicious is its blend of substantial chewy and melty outer layer with a bite-sized mikan that’s sweet and tart at the same time, clean of pith and seedless. Since they come frozen, if you defrosted it, but not fully, you get another layer of textures to it that work quite nicely.

In addition to the mochi mikan, they have a traditional red bean with hints of shiso encased in a boat-shaped crisp and fruit-flavored mochi popsicles that will blow your mind.

Climb all 785 steps to get to Kotohira Shrine’s main hall

Halfway to the top Mount Zozu stands a shrine that pilgrims have visited since ancient times to worship “the God of the Sea”. There’s one catch though, its main hall is up a long staircase of 785 steps that isn’t necessarily hard, but you just might break a sweat.

Kotohira-gu or Kotohira Shrine is commonly known as Kompira-san since it is the head shrine of multiple Kompira shrines all over Japan dedicated to the safe navigation for sailors. Over the centuries it’s flip-flopped between being Buddhist and Shinto until being declared a Shinto shrine in the Meiji period. This explains why there are elements of both religions visible.

The steps start from the base of the mountain in the town of Kotohira. Before you get to the main gate, your path is flanked with everything from udon restaurants, souvenir shops, teahouses, confectionary shops, and cafes.

At step 365, you’ll enter the shrine grounds. While it sounds daunting, the climb up is a mix of gradual walks uphill and pure stair climbing. Along the way are there are several auxiliary shrine buildings, religious elements, and even a stable for special white horses known as shinme.

When you hit 785 steps, you’ll make it to the main hall, a significant achievement for most that come here. In addition to a beautiful view of the plains below, visit Ema Hall, make a wish, get your fortune, and purchase a Yellow Charm of Happiness.

For those that are interested, you can do the full 1,368 steps along a forested path to make it to the small inner shrine (Okusha).

Treat yourself after all of those steps

After you climb all of those stone steps, treat yourself with soft-serve ice cream topped with oiri, a local sweet traditionally given out as gifts when couples marry.

An easy-to-miss spot on the main street is a free foot onsen that’s free for everyone to use, the perfect remedy for tired feet.

Your final stretch of driving is ahead of you. In 45 minutes, you’ll reach the city of Takamatsu. Return your car and pay the money owed for tolls (more on that in the car rental section). Take the local Kotoden train to your hotel and get yourself checked in.

Eat the extremely rare olive wagyu

Olive wagyu is a type of steak that not many people get to have because they’re made in such micro-batches that many would say this is one of the rarest types of wagyu (Japanese beef).

It comes from an inspiring story on the island of Shodoshima nearby where through much experimentation, it was discovered that cows fed a diet of toasted olives resulted in beef with marble, rich, and nutty umami flavor. In addition, it has the highest levels of healthy fats, at 65.2% oleic acid content.

I learned about olive wagyu through Adam Waxman of Dine Magazine but as I digged into where I could have it in Takamatsu, I quickly realized I was out of my depths as there isn’t exactly an online guide for the best olive wagyu restaurants in the city. Again, with the help of Shikoku Tours, they helped me with a reservation at the steakhouse, Ichigo.

In my own private room, I had the most divine steak I’ve ever had. Ordering a set meal for 150 grams of the lamp cut of olive wagyu, I cooked the beef to my liking on a hot stone. Every bite was magic, with texture where its marbling was soft and delicate but layered with a meat that was bold and nutty.

This certainly isn’t a cheap dinner but considering how hard it is to find olive wagyu not only globally, but even within Japan, it is totally worth it.

Itinerary Day 10 – Enter the Mediterranean of Japan

Now you could simply end your trip here but you’d be missing all of the amazing islands in the Seto Inland Sea. The one that has received international recognition is the art island of Naoshima and is one that you should definitely visit if you’ve made it this far.

Kagawa prefecture used to be called Sanuki which is why you’ll see that term used in various places including their udon. In fact, Sanuki udon is ranked among Japan’s top 3 famous udon noodles.

For brunch, head over to Sanuki Goyashiki where you’ll be able to taste what makes udon here special – chewy and firm texture with square shape and flat edges.

Take the ferry to Naoshima Island

The restaurant is located right at Sunport Takamatsu, a revitalized business and shopping area near JR Takamatsu. This is also within striking distance of Takamatsu Port, the original entry point into Shikoku by ferry and your best connection to the Seto Inland Sea Islands.

Whether you soak in the warmth of the sun from the upper deck or enjoy the comforts of the main deck inside, you’ll make it to in just 50 minutes. One thing you’ll remark when you arrive is 1) Takamatsu stays in sight the whole time so you’re really not that far away and 2) The Red Pumpkin is literally the first thing you see when you arrive.

After you disembark, you’ll be tempted to take photos of Yayoi Kusama’s Red Pumpkin like I was, but I think the smarter move is to head straight to your hotel, so you’re not trying to keep your luggage in sight while taking selfies.

The walk to Sparky’s House is slightly uphill but you’ll be on the side of the paved road so it’s not too bad. Get checked in and grab your e-bike rental. You’ll immediately feel a new jolt of energy (pun intended) as having a bicycle is quite liberating on an island such as Naoshima.

Watch the sunset at Miyanoura Port

Ride back down to Miyanoura Port and enjoy the backdrop of the sunset reflecting on the calm waters and shimmering off of the Red Pumpkin.

Under the night sky, you’ll notice the illumination of Naoshima Pavilion and Bunraku Puppet sculptures so ride around to them to snap a few photos.

For dinner, hopefully you’ve made reservations ahead of time through Sparky’s House but if not, you’ll have to bike around to the recommended restaurants. In my case, every single one was packed except for Cin.na.mon. Stepping in there, they initially said no since it was quite full but I noticed an empty table. I told them it was only for 1 person and they eventually said OK.

Itinerary Day 11 – Art Immersion on Naoshima Island

At only 8 square kilometers, Naoshima is home to some of the very best of contemporary art and architecture in the world, featuring the likes of Yayoi Kusama, Tadao Ando, Claude Monet, and James Turrell to name a few. Discover the artwork scattered throughout island. The only catch is that you have to leave the island at the end of the day so make the most of it.

Enjoy Miyanoura Port at sunrise

There’s something alluring about the pumpkin sculptures and not wanting to let any moment slip, I recommend that you head back to Miyanoura Port early in the morning so you can have the Red Pumpkin all to yourself.

Have an immersive art experience at Chichu Art Museum

Welcome to the Chichu Art Museum. This architectural masterpiece seamlessly blends art and nature, offering a unique experience for everyone. Designed by Tadao Ando, the museum itself is a work of art, mostly built underground to harmonize with the island’s landscape. As you approach, you’ll be awed by the museum’s minimalist concrete exterior, which hides its many artistic treasures within.

Once inside, ditch your phone and camera (since they’re not allowed) and open your mind to a carefully curated collection of contemporary artworks. The museum focuses on the works of renowned artists, Claude Monet, Walter De Maria, and James Turrell.

Beyond the individual art pieces, this is more about the immersive space itself, blending in natural and artificial light, optical illusions, the delicate tiling of the floor, and thought-provoking sculptures.

This is easily my favourite museum on the island which is why you need to secure those tickets as soon as they are available online.

Explore the wonders of Benesse Art Site

Intentionally designed for pedestrians (and their free shuttle bus), set out on foot and choose from the litany of outdoor art spaces, museums, and art pieces.

Depending on your interests, you can head inside Lee Ufan Museum. In our case, I couldn’t fit it in but I made sure to walk around their collection of outdoor sculptures.

Next is Valley Gallery which is under the same ticket as Benesse House Museum. Built along a valley that starts with small pond and narrows inwards, there’s an symbiosis between the work and surrounding nature. The most recognizable piece is Narcissus Garden by Yayoi Kusama which features large chrome balls. This is a much larger version of what we saw in the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in our Arkansas itinerary.

Lastly, there’s a Where’s Waldo of art pieces along the island’s southern coast so keep your eyes peeled!

Enjoy Benesse House Museum

The central hub and largest museum on the island is Benesse House Museum which was also designed by the legendary architect Tadao Ando. Inside is an impressive collection of contemporary art that seamlessly blends into the natural light and surroundings.

Make your way to the Yellow Pumpkin

Being mindful of time, make sure you leave enough time to continue walking along the pedestrian path that hugs the coast, checking out the numerous Benesse House Museum Outdoor Works, and eventually arriving at the icon of Naoshima and Yayoi Kusama, the Yellow Pumpkin.

Sitting solemnly on an old pier is Kusama’s largest pumpkin to date and what separates it from the others that have ever been produced, this one was uniquely designed with its location in mind. The vibrant yellow stands out amongst the sea and coastal mountains.

“Art is an Endless Struggle, Art is Love, Art is Life”

Yayoi Kusama

Make a quick stop in the town of Honmura

Grab your bike from where you parked it at Tsutsuji-so and ride to the town of Honmura which is along your way back.

Art is truly all around you on Naoshima. Even as you park your bike in Honmura, you enter a pavilion with a smattering of translucent spheres resembling a cumulonimbus cloud.

Take a break by grabbing a refreshing cup of gelato from Naoshima Gelato and if you skipped lunch like I did, One Stop is a nice pitstop as well for small bites.

Take the ferry to Uno

If your timing is right, you’ll be able to return your e-bike rental at Sparky’s House, get your stored luggage, have them drive you to the port, buy your ferry ticket, and be on your way to Uno.

The ferry ride from Naoshima to Uno is a swift 20 minutes. To get to Okayama Station, you’ll then need to take a JR train which is another hour into town. Luckily, it seems like the departure of the JR train is timed to the arrival of the ferry so you should be able to link them up nicely.

After you arrive in Okayama, it’s a short walk away to your hotel, Abest Grande Okayama.

There are plenty of restaurants nearby but for something hearty and quick, you can never go wrong with ramen at Nicoichi.

Itinerary Day 12 – Experience Okayama’s Past

Your whirlwind trip in Shikoku is coming to a close and while technically you’re now on the main island of Honshu and Okayama prefecture, take this final day to continue the trend of awesome experiences and charming towns.

Customize your own Betty Smith jeans

Not knowing much about Okayama, I initially thought that this would be a short overnight stay before flying out but as I did more research, I learned about the region’s deep connection with denim and that’s what lead me to the discovery of Betty Smith’s jeans making experience.

Now buying Japanese jeans off the rack in Tokyo is boring but customizing jeans from the factory where the denim movement started in Japan is quite exciting.

Start your day by taking the train down to the town of Kojima, birthplace of Japanese denim, and take the cab to the venerable jeans company, Betty Smith.

Granted, the name of the experience is a bit misleading. You don’t make jeans from scratch but instead, you get to pick the button, rivets, and leather label to go on the high-end Betty Smith jeans. Once selected, you’ll be the one to drive in the selected buttons and rivets using a special tool. The skilled craftsman will do the rest.

The beauty of this is that you get to learn how the finishing touches to jeans are made, and you come away with your own custom pair to take home.

Learn about the history of jeans

Before you leave, make sure to visit the two free museums they have on-site. Jeans Museum 1 focuses on international denim including its origin and etymology. In the larger Jeans Museum 2, you’ll see how denim was brought to Japan and insight into the manufacturing process.

Stroll down the iconic Jeans Street

Next, take a taxi to Kojima Jeans Street which is lined with over 30 shops selling denim products. You most likely will not have heard of any of these brands but it’s fun to be able to pop into a few of them to see what the trends are and what makes Japanese denim special.

The walk back to the Kojima Station is 15 minutes. From there, you’ll take the JR train back up to Okayama and then transfer to another train that’ll bring you to Kurashikishi Station.

Enjoy an afternoon exploring Kurashiki Bikan Historic Quarter

As you walk from Kurashikishi Station to the Kurashiki Bikan Historic Quarter, you’ll see the gradual transition from modern buildings and shopping arcades to Edo-period architecture and picturesque canals.

Similar to Uchiko, this is another example of a well-preserved prosperous town that’s retained many of its traditional white-walled merchant houses. Spend your time strolling down the narrow-lined streets and popping into its shops, galleries, and cafes.

There is a ton to see here. Don’t miss the renowned Ohara Museum of Art, the first Western museum in Japan. Explore the historic Kurashiki Ivy Square, a former cotton mill transformed into a cultural complex. Take in the scenic beauty of the willow-lined canal with a traditional punting boat ride. For the curious, step into the quirky Kurashiki Piggy Bank Museum.

And when you’re hungry, there are plenty of well-known cafes and snack stands to try including pudding from Yuurin-an Cafe, award-winning croquettes from Kinsho Croquettes Kurashiki, and yummy warabimochi from Kamakura Kurashiki.

TIP: Most shops close unusually early at 5PM.

Eat dinner at Kappa Tonkatsu

Before heading back to Okayama, you’d be remiss to not have dinner at Kappa Tonkatsu, a restaurant that specializes in crispy and tender cutlets of pork smothered in special demi-glace. It’s a easily one of the best tonkatsu I’ve had in Japan.

TIP: This restaurant is cash-only.

Before you head close off your 12th day on this Shikoku itinerary, here are a few things you need to know when you leave Okayama.

• While there is a taxi stand near the hotel, it’s safer to ask hotel reception to book a taxi. The 30 minute ride is metered and cost us ¥8,200.
• If you don’t have an early morning flight, there is a 30 minute bus from Okayama Station to the airport.
• Okayama Momotaro Airport (OKJ)’s hours are 6AM – 10PM. This means that they actually close their doors outside of these hours. If you have an early morning flight (i.e. 7:05AM), there’s no need to go to the airport before 6AM.

Map of Shikoku Itinerary

To help with your Shikoku trip planning, this map will be instrumental in identifying all of the locations mentioned on this itinerary and also some nitty gritty details like parking locations.

Japan, more than anywhere else in the world, we’ve found it important to have places pre-pinned on a map because some places just don’t show up when you search their English name.

HOW TO USE THE MAP: You can use the Shikoku itinerary map as is but if you’d like to do more with it, expand the map and create a copy in your logged-in Google account. With this copy, you’ll be able to access it in your Google Maps app under the Saved tab. Scroll to the bottom and look for the “Maps” button. Keep in mind that you need data to access this map. For an offline solution, use the offline Google Maps feature and individually save location pins on your primary map.

Renting A Car in Shikoku

This region is all about the blending of the sea, mountains, valleys, and islands with art, spirituality, history, and culinary. While some can be found in the cities, most of it’s gems are nestled in areas that require a car.

We think that the best way to see Shikoku is with a rental car but it might not be for everyone. Let’s breakdown the reasons for and against so you can make the best decision. For those that end up deciding on renting a car, we also list out what we learned from our experience.

Why it makes sense to rent a car

• Can get you anywhere – Public transit including trains don’t have the best coverage around the island of Shikoku, especially when you talk about places such as Iya Valley and Nakatsu Gorge.
• Save time – Technically, you can visit everywhere with buses and trains but the coordination effort would be high and wasted time would be enormous.
• It’s cheaper than you think – Everyone thinks Japan is expensive but car rentals prices are very reasonable. 9 days cost ¥65,230 which comes out to $440 USD or $48.89 per day.
• Plenty of parking – You won’t encounter any situation where you can’t find parking
• Driving is easy – Sure, there are some trickier roads through the valley but overall, it’s just not a very busy place and so there’s barely any traffic and Japanese drivers are so courteous.

Why you shouldn’t rent a car

• Some challenging driving – The drive through Iya Valley and Nakatsu Gorge aren’t dangerous but there are sections of it that narrow down to one car-width. This may dissuade those that are not confident drivers.
• Left side – In Japan, you drive on the left side of the road. If you’ve never done it before, it’ll take a few days to get used to. Again, this shouldn’t hold you back but something to note for anyone that gets anxious easily.
• You have a guide – If you end up booking a tour or are able to connect various excursions together, it might not be necessary to get a car.
• Tiring – The biggest drawback of driving is that there are quite a few long stretches required on this itinerary (i.e. Kochi to Shimanto and Nakatso Gorge to Matsuyama). It’s definitely easier to have someone to do the driving for you so you can nap along the way.
• Budget travel – If you’re looking to squeeze the most out of your budget, you could combine the Shikoku Rail Pass (buy here) where it’s ¥20,000 for 7 days plus the cost of local buses.

Advice on renting a car in Shikoku

• IDP – You need an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) to rent cars in Japan. Make sure you get one from your home country before you come here. In Canada, that means dropping by a CAA and in the United States, AAA.
• ETC – When renting a car, you’ll have an option to rent an ETC card with your vehicle. This is an IC card that’ll allow you to use the ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) lane on expressways that have tolls. This allows you to drive right through the gate without stopping. For this Shikoku itinerary, there are tolled highways in and out of the main cities. If you don’t want to deal with the stress of trying to avoid them, paying cash at toll gates, you should just pay it. ETC card rental is only ¥300.
• No ETC Passes – Shikoku doesn’t have any tourist-friendly, multi-day ETC passes (available in Sapporo) so no need to ask. This means that you’ll be paying each toll a-la-carte.
• Slow check-in – The car rental check-in process is very slow. For Times Car Rental, I had to fill out a new set of forms with my personal information, list of all hotels and their phone numbers (it’s fine if you don’t have them). After all was said and done, it took 45 minutes from arrival to driving off the lot. Luckily returning a car is much faster.
• No English – Don’t expect any of the car rental agents to speak English. Have your Google Translate app ready.
• Alternative booking sites – Booking through third-party platforms is perfectly safe and reliable. In fact, you can often find discounted rates through something like Klook. That said, we did not find any results for one-way rentals in Shikoku. Similarly, we tested RentalCars and DiscoverCars and while they have round-trip rentals, the could not display one-way results in Shikoku.
• One-way fee – If you do a one-way rental (i.e. Tokushima to Takamatsu), some companies charge a fee. In Times Car Rental’s case, it cost ¥6,000.
• Toll charges – When you return the car, they will be able to immediately pull the toll charges from the account. You’ll pay for these extra charges on your way out. For this particular 12-day Shikoku itinerary, I paid ¥9,690 in tolls.
• Insurance – They will offer insurance and it will be up to you whether you need it or not. If you have a credit card that includes car rental insurance coverage, make sure you charge the rental to your card and to decline their insurance package.

How to save money on car rentals in Shikoku

• For our specific dates, Times Car and Toyota were the closest in rates compared to the others so start your search there.
• Car rental coupon codes are not commonplace in Japan but they’re worth a try.
• It’s worth checking out the Times Car deals page which is the only company that does offer seasonal deals.
• Anecdotally, I found the best prices when searching through Klook or booking direct with Nippon, Times, and Toyota with car rentals all over Japan.
• It’s always a good idea to book your car as early in advance as possible even though Shikoku never gets too busy. From our experiences, prices only go up as supply dwindles.

5 Shikoku Travel Tips

I learned so much from this trip to Shikoku. So far we’ve already covered specific tips for attractions, activities, hotels, restaurants, and car rentals but there are a few more general pieces of advice that I think you’ll be glad to know upfront instead of being surprised when you get here.

1 – Challenges of driving in the valley

The two places where you’ll have to be on your toes is in Iya Valley and the Nakatsu Gorge area.

The reason why it’s challenging is because in various parts of the valley, there are areas that narrow down to one single lane that has to be shared with both sides of traffic.

When you get to these sections of road, I took the approach of driving more slowly, flicking my high-beams if it was dark, utilizing the mirrors that placed at every bend in the road, and relying on strategically constructed pulloffs. I found that it also helped to not be the lead car, and instead, trail behind someone else so they can spot oncoming cars.

If you get into a situation where you’re stuck because you’re staring at an oncoming car and there’s nowhere to go, first assess your surroundings and see if you’re able to back up. There’s usually a wider part of the road built-in deliberately to help in these situations. The oncoming driver might also be more experienced and make the first move, in which case you can take their lead. Another tip is to fold in your side mirrors if you’re worried about a particularly tight squeeze. Watch our Shikoku video to get an idea.

That said, don’t read this as this being a treacherous drive at all. For the most part, the roads are single or double lane, there are stretches where you can pass cars, and everything is marked clearly. Roughly 20% of the road narrow down to one lane and the rest are perfectly normal.

2 – Go during the off season

This just about applies to every single trip but in Japan, you should be aware of some of their big holidays which are:

• Golden Week – Roughly around April 28 – May 8
• Obon Holiday – August 10 -16

Other spikes in domestic and foreign visitors are during these seasons:

• Sakura (Cherry Blossoms) season – Late March to early April
• Northern hemisphere summer holidays – July to August
• Fall colors season – Mid to late November

While Shikoku is certainly not as busy as other popular destinations in Japan, you’ll certainly see a relative swelling of tourists during these periods. This can mean large crowds and wait times at main sights, and accommodations get booked out.

Beyond this, weekdays are always better than weekends.

3 – Get used to using your translation app

Being the least visited parts of Japan, it should come as no surprise that your English won’t take you very far in Shikoku. You’ll come across the one odd person that will speak a little but a majority won’t understand a lick of English.

The good news is that technology has come a long way since our early days of travel blogging and there are tools like Google Translate that do a decent job at translating languages. It’s not perfect, but it can certainly help break the ice.

Similar to what we had to do with our limited knowledge of Spanish in our month in Chile, I downloaded the Japanese language for offline use and mostly used a combination of live translations through the camera when trying to read menus or signs, and one-off translations of English sentences to Japanese.

In Shikoku, there will also be many instances of trying to have longer conversations with someone and that’s where Google Translate’s “Conversation” feature. This tries its best to allow you to go back and forth between English -> Japanese and vice versa in rapid succession.

Unfortunately, this feature has a long way to go as it gets tripped up quite easily. To help, here are a few tips to take away:

• Speak simply and be clear and concise in your sentences. Avoid slang and idioms.
• The app takes longer pauses as an end of your part of the conversation so you’ll need to speak in one continuous thought.
• Often times, its the person you’re speaking to that will have the most issues so it’s worth explaining how the feature works and sharing your tips with them ahead of time (which will also need to be translated). Otherwise, it becomes one big frustrating mess.

4 – Expect to use more cash than you think

This is something we constantly preach across all of our Japan travel guides. Japan is much more cash-heavy than you expect it to be so don’t get caught off-guard.

In our itinerary above, we’ve tried our best to identify anything that is cash-only. As you read through it, you’ll realize that more places only take cash than you expect.

Based on our costs, we’d recommend at least $500 USD worth of cash converted to Japanese Yen.

5 – Prepare for changes in weather

Shikoku goes through dramatic climate changes depending on where you are and what time of year it is. We won’t breakdown every scenario but here’s why you want to be prepared:

• The valley areas are several degrees cooler than being on the coast.
• The southern part of Shikoku (i.e. Kochi) gets much more rain than the northern part of the island.
• You can get really hot days in the summer (extends into September) and while Iya Valley may be cooler, remember that lack of air condition in many places will mean interiors will be even hotter.
• There are two times that you’ll be on the boat – Takamatsu for the Naruto Whirlpools, and on the Naoshima Ferry. These can get cold and breezy.
• On Naoshima, you’ll be biking and if there are no clouds, exposed to a lot of sun so it can be one of the hottest days of your trip.

We recommend the following items to help you stayed prepared on your trip:

How Much Did This Trip Cost

When we put together our itineraries, one question that we always get is how much it costs. That’s why we’ve included these cost breakdowns to help give you an idea of what kind of budget you need for a vacation like this.

Below is a table of the costs converted to USD. Keep in mind that this does not include the flights.

Category	Amount (USD)
Accommodations	$975
Transportation	$679
Food	$374
Activity	$324
Souvenir	$125
Communication (including eSIM from Airalo)	$20
TOTAL	$2,497

With a total spend of $2,497 USD, that’s a daily spend of $208 USD/person/day.

Comparing to the Far East Hokkaido trip, which was a $431/day, this trip was effectively half the price.

For other points of comparison, a week in Sapporo in the winter cost $318 USD/day, 1 month in Chile averaged out to $308 USD/day, 3 weeks in New Zealand was $353 USD/day, and 10 days in Egypt was $204 USD/day.

What To Pack for A Trip To Shikoku

We’ve covered some of this in our 5 Shikoku Travel Tips but we believe that they key for a trip like this is to remain as versatile as possible when it comes to clothing and gear.

This list isn’t meant to be comprehensive but we’ll list out some of the more important pieces and why. The links are mainly to mens products but you’ll be able to find equivalents. You’ll also notice that we wear a lot of Arc’teryx gear – not because we’re sponsored by them or because they’re from Canada, but because we love their quality and functionality.

Clothes

• Jacket – Arc’teryx Beta Shell – It’s a windproof and waterproof layer that you can wear on its own or in combination with the other layers. This is something you’ll want handy because you never know when you might encounter a rainy day.
• Waterproof pants – Arc’teryx Beta Pant – Along the same lines, you don’t want rain to ruin your day.
• Mid-layer jacket – Arc’teryx Atom Hoody – A great all-purpose jacket that provides warmth, feels incredibly soft, and packs down to a small size.
• Active fleece – Delta Hoody – This is a thin fleece that is your go-to long-sleeve when it’s just not warm enough to wear a t-shirt. It also layers well with everything else.
• Travel pants – Outdoor Research Ferrosi Joggers – These are seriously the most comfortable pants and perfect for travel with their zippered back pocket, elastic cuff hem, elastic waist, and quick-drying material.
• Shoes – Altra Lone Peak 7 – The number keeps incrementing every year but these have consistency been awesome for travel because they are light, provide tremendous traction, and dry very easily even though they are not waterproof. I’ve really come to enjoy zero drop shoes but they might not be for everyone.
• Active t-shirt – Cormac Crew Shirt – These high-performance tees are life changing. They have the qualities of a quick-dry shirt but is ridiculously light and breathable.
• Long-sleeve sunshirt – Outdoor Research Echo Hoodie – Ultralight long-sleeve fabric that’s meant to be used during warm weather but gives you full sun protection.
• Hat – Ciele GOCap – These are light, quick drying, packable, and fun-colored hats that are great for travel.
• Sunglasses – Maui Jim – The current model I’m wearing is discontinued but you can’t go wrong with anything they have. They also have the best lenses on the market according to our optometry friends.
• Swim trunks – Any swim wear – This one’s easy to forget but you’ll need it for your canyoning excursion.

Gear

• Luggage – Db Journey Ramverk Luggage – Chose the medium size of this niche brand mainly because they use one of the best and largest wheels on the market (60mm Hinomoto) which makes them silent and so easy to move around.
• Backpack – Shimoda Action X50 V2 – The ultimate photography backkpack for active travellers.
• Messenger bag – Everyday Sling – The 3L and 6L slings are amazing for travel, especially on days you don’t want to carry a full backpack but still want your camera with you.
• Travel towel – Microfiber Towel – We always recommend having these in your suitcase. These can also double as an onsen towel. That said, every accommodation was good about having towels available. The only exception is Hotel Iyaonsen where you needed to have your own. Most likely, you’ll just repurpose a free onsen towel from another location.
• Packing cubes – Eagle Creek Pack-It Cubes and Compression Cubes – Keep organized in your suitcase.
• Sunscreen – Sun Bum SPF50 for face and body – Make sure you’re protected every day.
• Bug spray – Repel 100 – I did not encounter any bugs in October but other seasons may be different.
• Reuseable tote – Peak Design Packable Tote – Super handy when shopping, have a lot of loose things that temporarily need to be moved together, and to keep all your snacks together in the car.

Gadgets

• Tripod – Peak Design Carbon Fiber Travel Tripod – This is our go-to tripod for our travels and we’ve reviewed it extensively.
• Camera – OM System OM-1 – This is honestly the best camera system if you love to travel, need something rugged for adventures, and shoot wildlife.
• Lens – OM System M.Zuiko Pro 8-25mm – I had to be selective with my lens choices for this trip and ended up using this one the most.
• Powerbank – VEEKTOMX 10000mAh – So good that I travel with 2 of these now with one set up in the backpack and another in my pocket if I need it. What’s important with this one is that it’s thin, small, and can properly quick charge.

Closing Thoughts On 12 Days In Shikoku

Shikoku won’t be on your radar but really should be. It’s the kind of place where the name doesn’t necessarily stand out from the travel pamphlets (if they still make those) but is the type of place where you can fittingly say “if you know, you know”.

These 4 thoughts encapsulate what makes this such a special place.

You can have it all to yourself – I loved my Golden Route experience 10+ years ago but going back to places like Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto this year, I’ll be honest, some of that joy was sucked away by huge hoards of tourists and needing to strategize around it. Shikoku was the polar opposite experience where I never had to worry about crowds and I could appreciate each place with intention and peace.

Authentic experiences – Shikoku is more than just sightseeing but there are so many ways where you can get your hands dirty. From knife-making to indigo dyeing, there are so many experiences that will give you a deeper appreciation of how serious they take their respective craft.

Beautiful blend of food, nature, art, and religion – There’s a zen-like quality of how well everything blends and interplays with each other in Shikoku. More than anywhere else I’ve been to in Japan, there’s a completeness to what you can see, do, and eat in Shikoku.

Amazing people – Don’t get me wrong, there are amazing people all over Japan but consistently, language barrier or not, it felt easier to make deeper connections here. Thanks to the freedom of pace and going to places that don’t get as many visitors, locals seemed to be more open to sharing their story.

Perhaps what it all comes down to is that strong sense of authenticity that permeates throughout Shikoku. It’s a feeling and vibe that doesn’t always come through in the marketing but I can tell you that it’s unlike anywhere else I’ve been.

If we’ve done a good enough job of convincing you, our hope is that you’ll make Shikoku part of your upcoming trip to Japan.

Frequently Asked Questions

This trip was in partnership with Visit Shikoku but all opinions are our own.