There’s an entire side to Japan that you haven’t seen and very few get to experience it. The far east region of Hokkaido shines brightly with its unspoilt nature. If swaths of wilderness, primeval forests, volcanic mountains, and caldera-filled lakes sound like your cup of tea, you need to come here.
In this 9 day Far East Hokkaido itinerary, you’ll get to truly appreciate the island’s treasures by seeing its vast range of ecosystems, feeling the healing power of its many hot springs, tasting its range of fresh and delectable seafood, getting close to awe-inspiring wildlife, and more.
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Where to book your hotels when going to Japan
- After considerable testing between Booking.com, Expedia, and Agoda, we learned that Agoda has not only an advantage in terms of having more inventory of hotels in Japan, but it was almost always cheaper as well when you look at the final totals.
Here’s what we’re covering:
9 Day Hokkaido Itinerary in the Far East
Hokkaido is globally known as a winter ski and snowboard destination but it’s so much more. Its allure also comes from how you get to visit places that most travellers don’t get to see and have cultural encounters that are at its utmost raw and authentic.
From land to sea, there’s an incredible diversity of scenery, wildlife, and culture that is truly deserving of the moniker of Japan’s wild frontier.
A question we’ve gotten a lot is, “isn’t this similar to Canada?”. To that, we say that we have a greater appreciation for this type of landscape because of some of its similarity but more importantly, everything you can experience here in 9 days just wouldn’t be possible in Canada (or New Zealand which we draw a lot of parallels to). The defining difference is how Far East Hokkaido’s outdoors perfectly dovetails with Japanese culture, meaning you get to have delicious seafood, soak in an onsen practically everyday, and feel that warmth and hospitality of locals which is unmatched in any other part of the world.
How to use this Hokkaido itinerary
We created this itinerary with you, our readers, in mind. How you use it is up to you.
For the independent traveller, you can use this is an exact blueprint of what you want to do in Far East Hokkaido or as a starting point that you tweak to your own.
If you would rather join a group, this itinerary also closely mirrors Adventure Hokkaido’s own 9 day itinerary so you can easily sign up with them. Make sure to scroll to the bottom on my thoughts about them.
In this guide, you’ll find day-by-day breakdowns, boxes labelled “What you need to know” which has the critical details you need for main activities with restaurant and accommodation recommendations.
Make sure to get to the end as well where we have the extremely useful trip map for those that are visual planners.
At Going Awesome Places, we are obsessed about building travel itineraries because that’s how we do our trip planning and its the kind of detail that is hard to find these days. You’ll see a lot of similarities with other ones we’ve created such as the 6 day Banff in the winter itinerary, 9 day Easter Island itinerary, 10 days in Patagonia, and 10 day Egypt itinerary.
Where is the Far East of Hokkaido?
While Hokkaido is Japan’s second largest island covering 20% of the country’s land area, it is only 5% of its population. This speaks to how much open space there is compared to other parts of Japan which are often tightly compacted.
The lack of urbanization and pollution combined with conservation efforts leads to a place that has been allowed to thrive in its commodity of natural treasures, a key draw to most visitors that decide to go to Hokkaido.
As you start moving to Eastern Hokkaido (Okhotsk, Tokachi, and Kushiro), the landscape becomes a mix of volcanic mountain ranges, hills, wide open plains, wetlands, and coastlands that stretch out to the sea.
While not officially a geographic term, Far East Hokkaido refers to cover furthest eastern reaches of the island where you’ll find a really magnificent cluster of pristine scenery and wildlife habitats. In addition, you’ll find 3 national parks here – Kushiro-Shitsugen National Park, Akan–Mashu National Park, and Shiretoko National Park.
This itinerary of the far east of Hokkaido is a prime example that this vast and secluded corner of Japan is the best place for those that want to experience the outdoors in a way that is uniquely Japanese.
Why Did We Visit Far East Hokkaido?
This trip was part of a much larger trip throughout Japan that started in September and just one part of what we managed to do in Hokkaido. For this particular segment, I was travelling on my own.
Within Hokkaido, I wanted to split our time time by doing your typical tourist route but I also wanted to go off-the-beaten-path that could fit my itch to do something a bit more adventurous and would allow me to delve into the incredible outdoors that the island is known for.
While the standard Hokkaido trip to Sapporo, Furano, Biei, Otaru, and Noboribetsu was easier to plan, I immediately felt out of my depths with Eastern Hokkaido when I realized that 1) there isn’t a lot of English-based information online, and 2) I needed serious local expertise if I wanted to book things.
That’s when I discovered companies like Hokkaido Treasure Island and Adventure Hokkaido. Both were extremely helpful but we ended up landing on the 9 Day Japan’s Far East Wildlife Adventure Tour that was already guaranteed to run and fit our timeline.
Logistically, I ended up starting our Hokkaido trip with the far east and then connected it with a week in Sapporo (coming soon), followed other popular parts of the island.
Day 1 – Kushiro to Kiritappu
Your first day in Far East Hokkaido is primarily a transit day. For some, this’ll mean coming directly from your home country and for others, you may be connecting from another part of Japan or Asia.
The largest city in this region is Kushiro so it makes sense to start your journey by flying into Tancho Kushiro Airport (airport code KUH).
TIP: If you’re coming straight from outside of Japan, your easiest connection will be from Haneda (HND) in Tokyo which is serviced by ANA, JAL, and Air Do, giving you plenty of non-stop options. This means that you don’t need to make an unnecessary hop in Sapporo if you don’t need to.
From here, join your tour group or pick up your car rental.
Alternatively, you can also take the train to Kushiro if you’re already in Sapporo or if you’ve decided to take the longer scenic way all the way from Tokyo.
Car Rentals from Kushiro
On-site car rental companies: The following are the companies that have booths set up at Kushiro airport.
Tips:
- You need an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) to rent cars in Japan. Make sure you get one from your home country before you come here. In Canada, that means dropping by a CAA and in the United States, AAA.
- In Japan, you drive on the left side of the road so keep that in mind. This might take some time to get used to at first but the good news is that there aren’t many cars in Hokkaido and Japanese drivers in general are not aggressive.
- There may be an option to rent an ETC card with your vehicle. This is an IC card that’ll allow you to use the ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) lane on expressways that have tolls. For this itinerary, you will not need one since there aren’t any tolled highways on this side of Hokkaido.
- Expect the check-in process to be extremely thorough and slow. From a timing perspective, this means accounting for at least 40 minutes to get from arriving at the counter to leaving with your rental car.
- Booking through third-party platforms is perfectly safe and reliable. In fact, you can often find discounted rates through something like Klook.
- We tested RentalCars and DiscoverCars and they unfortunately don’t show Japanese car rental agencies. This is why Klook is your best bet.
How to save money:
- Car rental coupon codes are not commonplace in Japan and since the big companies such as Avis, Hertz, National, and Enterprise can’t be found in this part of Hokkaido, you won’t be able to use them.
- It’s worth checking out the Times Car deals page which is the only company that does offer seasonal deals.
- Anecdotally, I found the best prices when searching through Klook or booking direct with Nippon, Times, and Toyota with car rentals all over Japan.
Drive 1.5 hours from Kushiro to the Kiritappu Peninsula which juts out into the Pacific Ocean. The eastern side of the peninsula is a famous cape that’s officially named Cape Tofutsu but is more commonly called Cape Kiritappu (Cape Tokkari in the Ainu language)
This is a table-shaped point that sprawls out into the ocean and is highlighted by a lighthouse, campgrounds, and plenty of wildlife. A well-laid path allows you to walk all the way out to close to the edge of the cape, which has a great view of the bird colonies on the small islands in front.
Recently, sea otters have made this cape their home in 2018 and so this area has become a popular viewpoint to spot these adorable otters floating on their backs.
Your resting spot for the night is Kurimoto. Settle into this traditional Japanese ryokan and freshen up by having your first onsen experience of this trip.
For dinner, you’ll walk over to the local neighbourhood sushi restaurant, Sushi Hirano, where you’ll have a sampling of some of the freshest seafood in Japan.
Day 1 Summary
What you’ll do:
Where you’ll eat:
- Dinner – Sushi Hirano – A traditional sushi restaurant that’s walking distance from your hotel.
Where you’ll stay:
- Kurimoto – A small inn that has both Western and Japanese-style rooms that are unfortunately a little outdated but that’s a bit of the norm in these rural parts of Hokkaido. The good news is that they do have an onsen.
Day 2 – Wetland Exploration
For your first day on this 9 day journey through Far East Hokkaido, you’ll be jumping, or rather paddling right into the heart of the marsh that is home to a vast variety of wildlife. Afterwards, as you follow the coast, you’ll also get to see another highly diverse are with seashores, tidal flats, grasslands, marshes, and forests.
But first…breakfast!
It’ll feel overwhelming at first but you’ll learn throughout the trip that this is how Japanese breakfasts at are done. Unlike Western breakfasts, its combination of textures, umami flavors, and nutrition that starts your mornings off right.
Kurimoto’s selection is packed with omega-rich proteins, grains, vegetables, and pickles.
Since marsh areas are by its nature difficult to traverse on foot, the best way to get an intimate view of the Kiritappu Wetland is by grabbing a canoe and paddling right in.
With the local paddle guides, you’ll float on your Canadian canoes through the narrow river channels of Biwase River which then opens up, giving you a real sense of how expansive the wetland is.
This classic out-and-back route is also awesome for birdwatching so make sure to keep your eyes peeled for eagles and red-crowned cranes. If you’re lucky, you might also see deer and bears in the distance.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Time:
- Duration – The paddle is roughly 2 hours
- Departures – 9AM and 1PM
- Season – Starts in June and ends when it reaches freezing temperatures
Price:
- Adults – ¥9,000
- Junior High School Students – ¥5,000
- Children – ¥2,000
- Solo – ¥12,000
Parking: There’s free parking at the boat launch area by the intersection of the bridge and Biwase River.
Booking: The easiest way to book is through their reservations/inquiry page.
Language: Most guides do not speak English or have some limited knowledge. It helps to travel a company like Adventure Hokkaido so that you have an English-speaking guide accompanying the group.
Website: LandEdge
FAQ:
- Do you need to have prior paddling skills? No, this is a very beginner-friendly excursion. They assign one guide to be at the rear of each canoe. They are responsible for most of the paddling and steering.
- Is food provided on the tour? Yes, there is a snack break in the middle where the canoes will be brought onshore and you’ll have your choice of coffee or tea and a LandEdge cookie.
- Do you have to bring any equipment? No, LandEdge will provide all canoeing equipment including the Canadian canoes, paddles, and life jackets.
- What happens if it rains? Tours will run even if there is rain. LandEdge can provide Wellington-style boots if the weather requires it.
- Are there any chances of flipping? There’s always a chance but it is quite small because you’ll have a guide with you on the canoe and the current is quite slow.
- Are reservations mandatory? Yes, reservations are required.
- How early do you need to book in advance? We recommend booking at least 2-3 months in advance. They recommend that groups of 5 make reservations as soon as possible.
Tips:
- There are lots of opportunities to see birds on this canoe trip so it’s a good idea to bring your binoculars and zoom lens.
- If you are bringing a camera or anything that you’re worried might get wet, make sure to bring your own dry bag. For this Hokkaido itinerary, a 5L dry bag is the perfect size.
- Being a wetland area, mosquitoes can be quite heavy at the parking lot, and the early parts of the paddle where you river is quite narrow.
For lunch, you’ll make a visit to the Kiritappu Wetland Center, an extensive interpretive center that does a great job at explaining and showing through models and diagrams the geology and wildlife. Set at a higher elevation, they also have a great view of the wetland area itself and is known to be a great spot to see red-crowned cranes.
On the upper floor is the Kiritappu Cafe which serves hearty dishes made with local ingredients. We recommend you get their Japanese curry which is absolutely fantastic.
In the afternoon, you’ll head drive up along the eastern coast of Hokkaido towards the Nemuro Peninsula. At the base of the peninsula is Shunkunitai, an 8km long and 1.3km wide sandbar that effectively divides the Nemuro Bay with Lake Furen.
On your visit, you’ll see a ecosystem that is a unique combination of forests, marshlands, grasslands, and tidal flats that is best seen from the elevated wooden boardwalk that you’ll walk through.
This a birdwatcher paradise, where you’ll have opportunities to see cranes, sea eagles, small birds of the forest and grassland, and a variety of migratory birds. There’s also a good chance that you’ll see deer here as well.
Settle into Hotel Nemuro Kaiyoutei for the night where you’ll have ample time to enjoy the onsen before your dinner at Osakana Shokudo.
Day 2 Summary
What you’ll do:
Where you’ll eat:
- Breakfast – Kurimoto – You’ll have a lovely traditional Japanese breakfast at the ryokan.
- Lunch – Kiritappu Cafe – On the upper floor of the Kiritappu Wetland Center is a small cafe where you’ll be able to order from a menu of items ahead of time from your guide. After lunch, make sure to try their ice cream!
- Dinner – Osakana Shokudo – Walking distance from your hotel that is a seafood lover’s paradise but also has other options such as tsukemen ramen and Japanese curry.
Where you’ll stay:
- Hotel Nemuro Kaiyoutei (Agoda) – Located in the heart of the fishing town of Nemuro is this family-friendly ryokan hotel that has a mix of Japanese and Western-style rooms. This is definitely one of the larger properties you’ll stay at but is also representative of what most accommodations in this region are like – typically a bit older but well-kept. This hotel also has its own onsen.
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Day 3 – Whale Watching Adventure
Whale watching is easily one of the top highlights of this itinerary so you’re in for a treat today as whales and porpoises await!
To get a head start to the day, you’ll have an early breakfast at the hotel and then hit the road, driving north towards the town of Rausu.
The perfect stop along the way to stretch your legs is the Pogawa Historic Grassland, an expansive outdoor museum where culture, history, and nature meet.
Not only is this a great walk but as you head deeper into the wetland woodland area, you’ll get to see numerous pit dwellings that were built by the people that inhabited this area before the Indigenous Ainu. You’ll need to use a bit of your imagination but they were built near this plateau to be right next to the seashore in ancient times.
By the visitor center, you’ll also see a fascinating reconstruction of what an ancient village used to look like.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Time:
- Duration – Roughly 2 to 2.5 hours to see most points of interest
- Departures – 9AM and 5PM (last entry at 4:30PM)
- Season – April 29 to November 23 (exact dates change year to year and it’s open every day)
Price: The visitor center is free but there is an admission fee if you’re going into the pioneer village and ruins.
- Adults – ¥330
- University and junior high school students – ¥110
- Junior high school students and younger – free
Parking: There’s free parking on-site (40 spots).
Language: You won’t find too much in English here so it’s helpful to be traveling with someone like Adventure Hokkaido so someone is able to explain the historical significance of this area.
Website: Hokkaido Shibetsu Town
FAQ:
- Are reservations required? No, you can go at any time.
Tips:
- The park is a habitat for brown bears so make sure to check the board for the latest sightings and also to practice smart bear practices.
- If you don’t have a bear bell, you can borrow one for free at the visitor center (¥500 deposit required).
Continue driving up to the fishing town of Rausu on the eastern coast of Shiretoko Peninsula. This is the perfect time to have lunch where it only makes sense to have generous portions of seafood for lunch at Shiretoko Shokudo.
You’ve made it all the way up here because of the special characteristics of Nemuro Strait. Sandwiched between the peninsula and Kunashiri Island is a deep trench that is filled with nutrients that make it an ideal home for marine wildlife.
Pushing back from the Rausu port, your whale watching cruise heads out into the strait where the captain and naturalists scan the waters for marine mammals.
Stay patient as there’s a bit of a gradual build-up to the experience. It usually starts with a few sightings of jumping tuna, followed by porpoises smoothly popping in and out of the water. Your elation crescendos when you see that sudden burst of mist from one whale, which then quickly dominoes into several more. The grand finale of course is always the raising of the tail fin before the whale goes for a long and deep dive.
While it isn’t a guarantee, there’s a good chance of sightings because there are typical several boats in the water and they use hydrophones to try to triangulate their location.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Time:
- Duration – Roughly 2.5 hours
- Departures – 9AM and 1PM
- Season – April 27 – October 14 (exact dates will change year to year)
Price:
- Adults – ¥8,800
- Elementary School Students – ¥4,400
- Pre-School Kids – Free
Parking: There’s free parking near the port area.
Booking: The easiest way to book is through their online reservations page which is in English.
Language: The naturalists and boat guides only speak Japanese. That said, when the naturalists give their presentation about the aquatic wildlife, their information cards have English on them.
Website: Shiretoko Nature Cruise
FAQ:
- Is this a private whale watching cruise? No, this is a public cruise which means that you’ll be on the boat with other travelers.
- Can you get sea sick on the boat? This is a smaller vessel and being in the open water means that it will pitch and roll with the waves, especially when stopped to view the whales. If you’re prone to sea sickness, make sure to prepare motion sickness medicine as they don’t have any onboard.
- What are the chances of seeing whales? They don’t guarantee sightings but as they are out on the water every day and there are several companies out there looking for whales, and with the help of hydrophones, there chances are good.
- Do you need to book in advance? Yes as you won’t want to take the chance of this cruise selling out. We recommend that you book this 4-5 months in advance.
- Does the boat have a bathroom? Yes, all of their ships have bathrooms.
- Is there an age limit for passengers? No, all ages are allowed on the cruise.
- Is the cruise wheelchair accessible? Unfortunately, their ships can’t accommodate wheelchairs.
- Are life jackets available? Yes, every passenger will receive a lifejacket when boarding and it is essentially mandatory to wear while onboard.
- Is there an inside cabin on the ship? Yes, there is a sheltered part of the ship that you can enter if you need to warm up or would like to sit down indoors.
- Does the ship go to the Russian occupied island of Kunashiri? No, for safety, the ship does not cross the median line between Japan and Russia.
- Is food allowed onboard? Yes, you’re allowed to bring your own food as there isn’t a concession stand on the ship. Remember to take the trash away with you.
Tips:
- If you are staying at Shiretoko Serai, they offer a coupon for Shiretoko Nature Cruise so make sure to ask when you check-in. Of course, this only works if you end up deciding to book your cruise when you arrive.
- Shiretoko Nature Cruise does a meticulous job of keeping track of sightings so check out their Wild Animals Seen to get an idea of what your chances are.
- They have a limited number of binoculars so if you’d like to use one, make sure to ask them when you board.
- Rausu in general is much cooler than the Utoro area that you’ll be headed to afterwards. Even in the summer, the temperatures are under 20°C (68°F). When you’re on the sea, it’ll feel even colder so you’ll want to make sure to have long sleeves and warm layers. While they recommend winter jackets, it isn’t necessarily that cold on the water as it can still get warm under the sun. We recommend that you wear a good shell jacket with an active fleece layer underneath, and long pants. In extreme cases, you might need you waterproof layers, a beanie, and gloves.
- If you’re interested in souvenirs, don’t miss out on their cho-e-maru gift shop which is also meant to be a cafe and lounge before boarding.
- For photographers, the upper deck of the boat has a better top-down vantage point. That said, it is also much more crowded there so you’ll often be struggling to find space to shoot amongst the passengers that are entrenched. The lower deck has fewer people because there aren’t many seats, giving you a bit more freedom to move around.
- There isn’t a better side to sit on the boat as the whales can appear from any direction. We also found that they do a good job at trying to give both sides fair chance at watching the whales.
To get an even better sense of your bearings, after your cruise, you’ll make your way to the Shiretoko Rausu Visitor Center. Just like the Kiritappu Wetland Center, these are an underrated part of the experience in Hokkaido where these are built to be like mini natural history museums.
You’ll often find deer roaming around this area and if there’s time, you can also walk to the Rausu Geyser which is just behind. You’ll find the exact eruption times posted in the visitor center.
After an action-packed day, you’ll be checking into the sea-side hotel, Shiretoko Serai. Enjoy their proximity to the water, walking distance to town if you have time, and dinner at their fusion restaurant.
Day 3 Summary
What you’ll do:
Where you’ll eat:
- Breakfast – Hotel Nemuro Kaiyoutei – Buffet-style breakfast where you’ll be able to make your own katte don (sashimi on rice).
- Lunch – Shiretoko Shokudo – Located on the second floor of the Rausu roadside station, this is a seafood restaurant that is known for its generous portions and fresh fish.
- Dinner – Shiretoko Serai – A unique upscale fusion-style dinner that will surprise you.
Where you’ll stay:
- Shiretoko Serai – This is a relatively new property in the town of Rausu that has a the feel of being modern and simple, like it came out of a MUJI catalog. Aside from great rooms, free parking, and included meals, it also has killer views of the Nemuro Strait. A heads up that this is the only property on the itinerary that doesn’t have an onsen.
Day 4 – Bear Watching Surprise
From whales, we go to bears as our focus for your fourth day in the far east of Hokkaido before cutting across the peninsula to reach the western side of Shiretoko.
After breakfast, you’ll pack up, load the car or bus, and take the road north as far as you can from Rausu. It’s at this end of the road that you’ll find Aidomari Fishing Port.
For this bear watching cruise, you’ll take to the sea in a local fishing boat and make your way up to the tip of Cape Shiretoko.
This is a thrilling experience as the speedy craft allows you to see the grandeur of its cliffs, the flora and fauna, bird colonies, soaring eagles, deer, foxes, and of course, Ussuri brown bears. You might also taste a bit of salt water too from the splashes that come your way.
Like the whale watching cruise, every excursion is different and there’s no telling where the bears might be but since the fisherman is typically out on the water a few times a day, he or she has a pretty good idea of where to focus on.
In some cases, a bear will appear one moment, and in the next, run away. In other cases, you might get lucky and a bear will decide to plop down on a rock to take a nap.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Time:
- Duration – Roughly 2.5 hours (1.5 hour to Cape Shiretoko and 1 hour back)
- Departures – 9AM, 2PM (1PM from September 16 – October 15)
- Special departure – 5AM (September 1 – 30)
- Season – April 15 – October 15 (from September onwards, cruises may be cancelled due to water conditions)
Price:
- Adults – ¥11,000
- Under 11 years old – ¥5,500
- Special departure – Group of 3 (¥13,000), Group of 8+ (¥12,000)
Parking: There’s free parking near the fisherman’s office and Aidomari Fishing Port.
Booking: Brown Bear Boat Cruise page
Language: The boat captain only speaks Japanese. That said, your guide from Adventure Hokkaido will point out the birds you’ll encounter on the coast and will be another pair of eyes for brown bear spotting.
Website: Lincle Shiretoko Rausu
FAQ:
- Can you get sea sick on the boat? This is a small fishing boat and and being in the open water means that it will pitch and roll with the waves, especially when stopped to view the whales. If you’re prone to sea sickness, make sure to prepare motion sickness medicine as they don’t have any onboard.
- Is there a minimum number of passengers required? For standard departures, 2 are required. For the special departure, 3 are required.
- What are the chances of seeing brown bears? There is no guarantee of seeing bears on this cruise. From our experience, the sense is that it’s harder to spot bears compared to the whale watching cruise. That said, the captain is very experienced and knows where they will likely be found.
- Do you need to book in advance? We recommend booking in advance. Similar to the whale watching cruise, you don’t want to be put in a position where you show up and they
- Are departures guaranteed?
- Does the boat have a bathroom? There is no bathroom on the ship so make sure to use the porta-potty at the office/meeting point.
- Is there an age limit for passengers? It is recommended to be the age elementary school students or above as the boat will bounce quite a bit. Anyone younger may be refused boarding.
- Is the cruise wheelchair accessible? No, it is not wheelchair accessible.
- Are life jackets available? Yes, every passenger will receive a lifejacket and it will be mandatory to keep it on.
- Is there an inside cabin on the ship? No, the fishing boat has neither roof or indoor cabin.
Tips:
- Compared to whale watching, expect the temperatures to be much colder on this experience because you’re fully exposed to the wind and spray. The fishing boat is also significantly faster. Even midsummer, temperatures can reach down to the single digits (i.e. 7°C/44.6°F). Even more than the whale watching cruise, you’ll want to make sure you are dressed cold weather.
- We recommend you wear a hat or beanie, waterproof jacket, fleece, waterproof pants, hiking shoes (avoid sandals), and if you get cold easily, gloves as well. The sea spray more than just a little so make sure you’re prepared.
- If you don’t have winter clothing, you can rent a winer jacket for ¥500.
- Make sure to apply sunscreen before boarding.
- If you’re carrying a lot of gear, a backpack is allowed onboard as there’s quite a bit of legroom on the fishing boat. If you’re worried about items getting wet, you can pack everything into a dry bag.
- To set expectations properly, the fishing boat will not be able to get close to shore even when there is a bear sighting to reduce human interference.
- Remember to pack your binoculars. If you don’t own one, this Celestron is our favorite.
- For photographers, the lighting in the afternoon can be challenging to photography because the coastline is cast in shadow and the sky will be quite overblown.
- If you’re shooting with a big zoom lens (OM System 150-400mm) as I was, you’ll find that you’ll need maximum reach (800mm-1000mm full frame equivalent) to get as close as you see in the photos. At that reach, your will be bobbing up and down like crazy because of the waves so good image stabilization, animal tracking (available with the OM-1 body), and patience will be required.
- The coastline will be on your left when going up the peninsula and of course on the right when coming down. As a result, I’d recommend sitting on the left side as most sightings will be as you make your way up. That said, since the fishing boat isn’t overcrowded, you won’t have the issue of people in your way.
Before departing Rausu, you’ll have lunch at Jun No Banya, a local eatery that looks like a fisherman’s shack outside, is decorated like one inside, and delivers on all of its seafood bowls and set meals.
Right before you cross over to the Western side of Shiretoko Peninsula, you’ll have an opportunity to do either a hike to Kumagoe Waterfall, the public Kumanoyu onsen, or both.
At roughly the midway point of the peninsula is Shiretoko Pass. On a clear day, you’ll have spectacular views of Mount Rausu and Nemuro Strait where you just came from.
Next up is the Shiretoko Nature Center, which has information and exhibits about Shiretoko National Park, a restaurant, and souvenir shop.
From just behind the nature center is the trailhead to a short 40 minute round trip hike to Furepe Waterfall.
The hike starts in the forest and then opens out to grassland that leads to a wooden observation deck. From this elevated viewpoint, you’ll be able to see the waterfall that’s fed by groundwater, a lighthouse in the distance, and the crashing of waves below.
Utoro is the major town on the western coast of Shiretoko, and you’ll be glad to hear that you’ll be spending 2 nights in one location.
Not only will you be able to stay in one place for longer, you’ll also experience one of the most well-rounded properties of the itinerary.
Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko will easily be your favourite because of its both public and private onsens, modern and spacious rooms, and luxurious dining experience.
For one of your two nights here, you’ll have the most remarkable Kaiseki-style meal that has you dipping a variety of vegetables, cheese, and seafood in batter and cooking your own tempura. I just thought this was the coolest thing.
Day 4 Summary
What you’ll do:
Where you’ll eat:
- Breakfast – Shiretoko Serai – A buffet-style breakfast with a nice mix of Western and Japanese of choices. Make sure to have their selection of homemade breads.
- Lunch – Jun No Banya – From the outside, it looks like a fisherman’s shack but inside, you’ll be able to order the most delectable seafood bowls and bento sets.
- Dinner – Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko – A one-of-a-kind dining experience where not only will you have a personal selection of mini dishes, sashimi, and grilled fish, but you’ll also be able to make your own tempura from a plate that consists of potato, egg, zucchini, scallop, mushroom, cheese, salmon, eggplant, and pumpkin.
Where you’ll stay:
- Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko – Easily the best property on this Far East Hokkaido itinerary thanks to comfortable rooms, craft beer served in the lobby, mix of public and private onsens, and superb dining experience.
Tips:
- It’s worth noting that Shiretoko Pass closes in the winter. Every year is slightly different but it is usually the last week of October.
Japan Trip Planning Essentials
If you’re in the middle of booking your trip to Japan, here are the most important places you need to go to book:
- JR Pass – The two most reliable places we always check are JRailPass and JRPass. If you are taking long distance Shinkansen across multiple region, get the full JR Pass. If you’re focusing on one specific area, you only need a JR regional pass.
- Shinkansen – The JR Pass prices have gone up and for many of you, it’ll make more sense to book tickets individually. The secret is that when you buy your Shinkansen tickets through Klook offers special vouchers for Don Quijote and BIC when booking. Their tickets are super easy to redeem as well. Right now, use code SKS10OFF to save $10 USD off.
- Hotels/Ryokans – In Japan, the best website for accommodations, hands down is Agoda.
- eSIM – The best one is Airalo. Save money by getting the Japan region eSIM and use referral code WILLIA9500 to get $3 USD credit on your first purchase. Ubigi is another one that we’ve had success with where they uniquely offer 5G coverage. Use code AWESOME10 to save 10% on your first order.
- Pocket Wifi – While we do love eSIMs, having a pocket wifi is great for sharing data with a large group. The most popular is NinjaWifi which is easy to pick up at the airport. Alternatives are offered by JRPass and JRailPass. For a more long term solution, consider Solis and PokeFi.
- Car Rental – Big companies like Budget, Avis, and Enterprise operate in Japan but they’re usually the most expensive. The best companies are the local Japanese ones such as Toyota Rentacar, Nippon Rentacar, Orix Rentacar, Nissan Rentacar, and Times Car Rental. To make things easier, use Rentalcars and Klook to compare prices all in one place. Don’t forget, you need an IDP to drive in Japan!
- Learn Japanese – It helps to know even a bit of the language before you go. Start your learning with Rosetta Stone Japanese.
- Cash or credit – Cash is still very important to have in Japan but when you use credit cards, make sure you’re not getting charged those extra exchange rate fees. The best card right now is the Wise Multi-Currency Card which is actually a debit card where you can convert at favorable rates beforehand. This cuts out any sneaky transaction fees.
- Travel Insurance – Make sure you’re covered in case something happens. Get quotes from Insured Nomads and if you’re from Canada, get quotes from RATESDOTCA.
Day 5 – Shiretoko Five Lakes
You won’t be saying goodbye to the Ussuri brown bears or Shiretoko Peninsula just yet. For your 5th day, you’ll be spending time in the most famous park in the region, followed by a change of pace with free time in Utoro.
Brown bear watch is always on when you’re driving through the road that connects Utoro with Rausu. Everyone should be watching out for bears as you drive to your first destination of the day.
With a bit of luck on your side, you might encounter a bear along the way. The only thing is that if you do, you aren’t allowed out of the vehicle and technically, you can’t stop on the side of the road. There are park rangers that patrol this area and will enforce this in order to keep everyone safe.
In our case, we were incredibly lucky because we just happened to see this one bear by the river below while crossing a bridge. From the bus, I was able to snap an amazing sequence of photos as the bear moved along the lake and then stay perfectly still on a rock, seemingly posing for us.
The most accessible way to go deeper into Shiretoko Peninsula is at Shiretoko Goko Lakes (fully translates to Shiretoko Five Lakes) where there are 5 lakes nestled in the primeval forest and backed up against the the Shiretoko Mountain Range and the Okhotsk Sea.
It’s here that you’ll be able to traverse on foot and see the abundance of nature and wildlife with the rustling of deer skittishly jumping away, brown bear scratches, and holes in the trees from hardworking woodpeckers.
As this is a prime area for brown bears, Shiretoko National Park takes safety very seriously. In addition to filling out an application form, you’ll also need to attend a 10 minute lecture to learn about recent bear sightings and more importantly, what you need to do if you see a bear. During mating season, you’ll also need a mandatory guide.
To see all 5 lakes, take the full long loop of the ground pathway. There’s also a short loop if you don’t want to do as much walking.
For our trip here, we got to experience first-hand what happens when bears are spotted near the trail. Within the first 5 minutes of the walk on the long loop, we saw people turning back in what is supposed to be a one-way trail. We immediately knew that there were bears up ahead, unceremoniously cutting our hike short.
Luckily, there is the elevated wooden path that was built for the purposes of conservation but also to keep visitors safe from bears thanks to its electric barrier.
This wooden boardwalk uniquely undulates and swirls with the topography of the land, providing you numerous vantage points and perspectives of the wild nature that surrounds you.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Shiretoko Five Lakes (also known as Shiretoko Goko Lakes) is a unique ecological landscape within the World Heritage Site of Shiretoko Peninsula that allows you to walk through a primeval forest and around five different lakes.
Address: Use “Shiretoko-Goko Lakes Field House” on Google Maps when navigating here.
How the Ground Pathways works:
- The park is extremely strict around the ground pathways because bears are common in this area and they need to ensure that visitors know what to do if bears are sighted.
- There are two different loops available – one short and one long. Both of these tracks run one-way and feed through a uni-directional gate into the Elevated Pathways, closing the loop.
- If any bears are discovered on the trail, the entire Ground Pathways area is evacuated so this is one place where you don’t want to encounter any bears. To keep track of recent sightings the Shiretoko Goko Lakes homepage has a calendar for sightings. Use this to plan whether you’ll attempt the Ground Pathways or if you’ll just do the Elevated Pathways instead.
- A maximum of 50 people are admitted at a time and spread across 10 minute intervals.
- During the Bear Active Season, registered guides are required which is detailed below.
How the Elevated Pathways works:
- This is an elevated wooden boardwalk built to protect the fragile ecosystem and is safe way for visitors to enjoy the area without all the rules of the Ground Pathways since it has an electric fence.
- The boardwalk is wheelchair friendly.
- For those that are exclusively during the Elevated Pathways, this is an out and back trail (800m each way)
- It is free to walk the Elevated Pathways.
Time:
- Duration
- Ground Pathways Short Loop – 1.6km (1 mi), 1.5 hours
- Ground Pathways Long Loop – 3km (1.86mi), 3 hours
- Elevated Pathways – 1.6km (1 mi), 1.5 hours
- Season – Mid April to early November (exact date will change year to year)
Eco Preservation Awareness Season: From opening day to May 9 and August 1 to closing date
- Admission can be purchased from the vending machine at Shiretoko Goko Lakes Field House – Adults (12+) ¥250 and children (0-11) ¥100.
- In order to enter, you’ll need to fill out a form and attend a 10 minute lecture. After you finish the lecture, you’ll receive a Certificate of Entry.
- The Long Loop might be closed from April to May depending on snowfall.
Bear Active Season: May 10 to July 31
- During this season when bears are most active, a registered guide is mandatory.
- You are not allowed to walk on the trail without a guide. Through their guide booking page, where you can book freelance guides. There isn’t a fixed fee which is why there is a range in their rates. They roughly cost ¥5,000 per adult for the Long Loop and ¥3,500 for the Short Loop, and the maximum group size is 10. When using this page, make sure to filter by those that speak English.
- The guide fee includes admission.
- You will still need to attend a 10 minute lecture and you’ll receive a Certificate of Entry.
- As additional precaution, pregnant women, preschoolers, and toddlers are not allowed on the Short Loop. They are allowed on the Long Loop if you give them a heads up.
Parking: There is paid parking available for 100 cars. The price is ¥500 for cars, ¥200 for motorcycles, ¥1,000 for microbuses, and ¥2,000 for large buses. A heads up, in August, parking is very limited and shuttle busses are recommended.
Shuttle: During peak travel periods in August (different dates announced each year), they run a shuttle from the Utoro side of Shiretoko peninsula. Major stops include:
- Shari Bus Terminal
- Utoro Onsen Bus Terminal
- Shiretoko Nature Center (this is the best option for those with cars and it should be possible to buy tickets from here as well to speed things up)
Website: Shiretoko Goko Lakes
FAQ:
- When does the Shiretoko Five Lakes open? Every year, the season opens according to when they open up the road to the Shiretoko park line. The opening season is in accordance with the opening period of the Hokkaido prefectural road of the Shiretoko park line which is typically in mid-April.
- Are there bathrooms along the trail? There are no bathrooms on the Ground Pathways and Elevated Wooden Path. There are full facilities at the Shiretoko Park Service Center.
- What should you do if you encounter a bear on the trail? Your lecture will teach you to move away calmly and slowly. At this point, move to the closest exit.
- Are bear bells and whistles mandatory? No, they are not required.
- Is there any information in English at the park? Yes, they are good about writing procedures and updates in several foreign languages. They also have English staff members at the Shiretoko Goko Lakes Field House.
- Are drones allowed? Since this is part of Shiretoko National Park, you aren’t allowed to fly drones here.
Tips:
- Make sure to check the sightings calendar 1-2 days before you go just to see what the chances are that Ground Pathways will be open or, in our case, needing to turn around after a short distance.
- You can rent rubber boots at Shiretoko Nature Center if it has been raining and the Ground Pathways trail is reported to be very muddy.
- If you’re curious about the type of animal sightings you might have, take a look at the Goko Five Lakes wildlife calendar.
After your morning at Shiretoko Five Lakes, you’ll take the road back down into town and you’ll get dropped off in the town of Utoro. As a nice change of pace halfway through your trip, you’ll have free time to do as you will.
For lunch, our recommendation is to head to Kumanoya which is right by the roadside station and has a nice selection of ramen, seafood bowls, grilled fish, and more.
For the rest of the afternoon, you can choose between heading over to the Shiretoko World Heritage Center to learn more about the UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site, hiking up Oronko Rock next to the harbor for superb views of the town and coast, strolling around the town and soak in the small fishing village vibes, or heading back to the hotel for more time in the onsen, sipping craft brews, nap, or catch up on your emails.
With your last night at Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko, absolutely take advantage of the private onsen and their special dining experience.
Day 5 Summary
What you’ll do:
Where you’ll eat:
- Breakfast – Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko – Superb Japanese-style breakfast with a balanced mix of fish, vegetables, rice, yogurt, and soup.
- Lunch – Kumanoya – On your free time in Utoro, you’ll be able to eat anywhere but this restaurant is a great choice for those that are looking for ramen or seafood.
- Dinner – Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko – With how incredible the dinner is, you won’t mind eating here for another night. Instead of the DIY tempura, it’ll likely be replaced with a shabu-shabu with vegetables.
Where you’ll stay:
Special Promotion with Adventure Hokkaido
If you book an Adventure Hokkaido, mention us and you’ll get an awesome buff or t-shirt.
How? Use the code GOINGAWESOMEPLACES when you fill out the form to put in an inquiry under the “Additional Information” field.
Day 6 – From Volcanoes to Rivers
You don’t get all of the incredible onsens and untamed landscapes in Hokkaido without volcanoes. Start your day seeing it first hand from the steaming Mt. Io and cool off on the calm waterways of Kushiro River.
Departing Utoro, you’ll be exiting Shiretoko National Park and entering a new one, Akan-Mashu National Park – a land of forests, lakes, and volcanoes that span a massive 91,413 hectares in size.
The most dramatic evidence of this volcanic activity is at Mt. Io which is also named Atosanupuri in the Ainu language. In Japanese, this literally translates to sulphur mountain and was once extensively mined in the 19th century. In Ainu, it translates to “Naked Mountain”.
It is quite the dramatic scene when you arrive with its plumes of steam from afar and neon bright yellow fumaroles up-close. You’ll have time to walk around the otherworldly and barren landscape at the base of Mt. Io, allowing you to hear, smell, and see the active volcano.
From here, you’ll directly connect with the Tsutsujigahara Nature Trail. This is a 2.5km walk where you’ll see the environment change in front of your eyes.
At the beginning of the trail, you’ll only see burnt branches and the hardiest of plants that can survive in the acidity of the soil such as Japanese stone pine and Labrador tea tree. Gradually, this gives way to azaleas and larger conifers such as Sakhalin spruce. The path eventually winds into a mossy broad-leaf forest where the ground becomes magically bouncy.
The trail ends at the Kawayu Visitor Center (formerly Kawayu Eco Museum Center) which is worth a visit to see the scope and scale of where you are compared to the Akan Caldera.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
One of the best ways to experience the story of Mt. Io is to start from the footsteps of the active volcano and then combine it with the Tsutsujigahara Nature Trail which goes all the way to the Kawayu Eco Museum Center.
Time:
- Duration – 1.5 hours (the trail can be done in 1 hour but you’ll spend at least 30 minutes getting up sulphurous steam vents close to the mountain.)
- Distance – 2.5km (1.55mi)
Parking: There is a large parking lot next to the Visitor Center and costs ¥500 per vehicle and ¥200 for motorcycles. By paying this fee, it’ll also cover the parking at Lake Mashu Observatory No. 1.
Website: Teshikaga Navi
FAQ:
- How challenging is the Tsutsujigahara Nature Trail hike? It is an easy hike as it is quite flat and a clearly aid out path.
- Is this hike a loop? The hike from Mt. Io to the Kawayu Visitor Center is one way. This means that it only works in a tour group where the bus driver can pick you up on the other side. Otherwise, you’ll need to hike back the same way you came, doubling the distance and time.
- Is it possible to hike Mt. Io? Yes, it is possible to hike up the mountain but only with a certified guide. This is called the Atosanupuri Trekking Tour and is only offered in Japanese. It runs from May to November and costs ¥13,000 per person.
- Is there a best time to go? The volcano and trail is beautiful all year round but one season to keep in mind is when the Labrador tea tree blooms in June and July.
- Is there a way to take a bus to Mt. Io? Yes, it’s certainly possible but will be tricky to integrate because it only runs 2 times a day and during a very limited window in the summer (July 29 to September 3, 2023). The ticket you need is called the Teshikaga Eco Passport that allows you to take a bus that starts from either JR Mashu Station or Kawayu Onsen Station.
- Are drones allowed? Since this is part of Akan-Mashu National Park, you aren’t allowed to fly drones here. We were able to fly here because of special permissions.
Tips:
- There isn’t a lot of cover for the first 3/4 of the hike so make sure to put on sunscreen.
- It goes without saying that you need to be careful around the fumaroles. This is an active volcano and the temperatures of the steam can get up to an excess of 100°C (212°F).
- Make sure to include Kawayu Onsen Foot Bath in your itinerary. It’s easy to miss but a great way to end off your hike.
What better way to relax those tired feet than to take a dip into the soothing waters of the Kawayu Onsen Foot Bath. This public and free natural hot springs is just a short distance away from the museum.
This onsen measures at pH 1.5, which makes sense since it is so close to Mt. Io. The benefits of acidic water is that it has natural sterilizing properties and is good for the skin.
Kushiro River is one of Japan’s famous rivers that starts from the Lake Kussharo in the north, winding its way through numerous towns and the Kushiro Wetland, before emptying into the Pacific Ocean.
With a negligible elevation difference across its length, the current is gentle, making it the perfect location for an easy canoe excursion.
Starting from Lake Kussharo, you’ll be able to paddle on your Canadian canoe downriver one-way to Biruwa Bridge. Along the way, you’ll see what the river is renowned for – pristine waters and an abundance of rare wildlife such as Blakiston’s fish owls, deer, red-crowned cranes, and mink.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Time:
- Duration – The paddle is roughly 2.5 hours
- Departures – 5:30AM, 9AM and 1PM
- Season – April to early November
Price:
- Adults – ¥9,000
- Elementary School Students – ¥8,000
- Children – ¥5,500
- Solo – ¥13,500
Parking: There’s free parking at Somokuya’s office and the boat launch area by the Chouko Bridge.
Booking: You can make your reservation online (scroll to the form at the very bottom).
Language: Most guides do not speak or only have limited knowledge of English. If you’re traveling with Adventure Hokkaido, their guide will accompany you so that you have an interpreter.
Website: Somokuya
FAQ:
- Is food provided on the tour? Yes, there is a snack break in the middle of the paddling where you’ll have your choice of coffee or tea and a baked good. Children will be provided a separate drink.
- Do you have to bring any equipment? No, Somokuya will provide all canoeing equipment including the Canadian canoes, paddles, and life jackets.
- What happens if it rains? Tours will run even if there is rain. Somokuya also has free rain gear for rent.
- Do you need to have prior paddling skills? No, this is a very gentle and relaxing canoe trip. They assign one guide to be at the rear of each canoe and they will be doing most of the paddling and steering.
- Are there any chances of flipping? There’s always a chance but it is quite small because you’ll have a guide with you on the canoe and the current is quite slow.
- Are reservations mandatory? Yes, reservations are mandatory for this paddle tour.
- How early do you need to book in advance? Their popular tours book out quite quickly in the summer season so it’s advisable to book 2-3 months in advance.
- Is it possible to paddle your own canoe? Yes, you can request paddle your own canoe.
- Are drones allowed? This area is still within the Kushiroshitsugen National Park so drones are not allowed without special permissions.
- Is round-trip transportation provided? Since this is a one-way paddle, Somokuya will pick you up at the take-out point and drive you back to their office.
Tips:
- Unlike the paddling you’ve done already on the Biwase River in the Kiritappu Wetlands, Kushiro River is a much more intimate, narrow, and more shallow, so pay attention to the river banks for mink, crayfish in the water, and birds.
- There are lots of opportunities to see birds on this canoe trip so it’s a good idea to bring binoculars and zoom lens.
- If you are bringing a camera or anything that you’re worried might get wet, make sure to bring your own dry bag. For this 9 day itinerary, a 5L dry bag is the perfect size.
- Compared to the Kiritappu Wetlands, mosquitoes are less of an issue but it’s still a good idea to be prepared with repellent if they are heavy.
For tonight, you’ll be staying at Gasthof Papilio, a cozy woodland retreat. It’s not your typical hotel or ryokan but you’ll quickly feel the charm from its quirky decor, friendly innkeepers, and delicious Western-inspired food.
The hotel is equipped with a natural onsen indoors and also a private outdoor onsen made from a giant wooden barrel.
Day 6 Summary
What you’ll do:
Where you’ll eat:
- Breakfast – Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko – Similar Japanese-style breakfast.
- Lunch – Cafe Noble – Located near the Kawayu Onsen Foot Bath and museum, this is a cozy cafe with mountain lodge vibes. They serve a mix of Western and Japanese cuisine, depending on what you’re in the mood for.
- Dinner – Gasthof Papilio – You truly feel like you’re a guest of someone’s home when you stay here. In their cozy dining area, you’ll have a stream of plates that include salad, sashimi, grilled veggies, tempura, and pork.
Where you’ll stay:
- Gasthof Papilio – This is a guesthouse in its purest form. Tucked in the forest is a German-style house that feels like you’re staying at your favorite grandfather’s cottage. Yes, it’s a bit old fashioned and it’s a bit quirky with all the various things they’ve collected from their travels, but it has an atmosphere that allows you to feel at home, especially with their onsen (indoor and separate outdoor tub) and the serene nature that surrounds the house.
Spending time in Tokyo?
With over 100,000 restaurants in the city to choose from, how do you pick where to eat? Our Tokyo restaurant guide makes it easy by picking the best places to eat.
Tokyo Food Guide
Day 7 – The Ainu
Day 7 is dedicated to the Ainu, the Indigenous people of Hokkaido that inhabited this land long before the Japanese. By spending time in the Lake Akan area, you’ll have the opportunity to learn more about their history, culture, and way of life.
Before you go, with Gasthof Papilio being right across the road from Lake Kussharo, start your morning with a rejuvenating walk along its shores.
Within Akan Mashu National Park is the beautiful Lake Akan. It’s here that you’ll find Lake Akan Ainu Kotan, an Ainu settlement of 120 people in 36 residences, focused on preserving and promoting its culture through arts and crafts.
Better than walking through a museum, you’ll appreciate a nature walk with a local Ainu guide through the forest where you will learn about how the Ainu lived in harmony with the surrounding nature and wildlife.
The walk starts off by entering sacred grounds of the Ainu and participating in a ritual called kamuy-nomi before entering the forest. Along the way, you’ll see examples of how they made shelter, the plants they gathered for food and medicine, wood and bark used for carvings and clothing, and finally you’ll learn to play the mukkuri (Jew’s harp).
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
The specific tour we joined is called “Forest Time (Forest Walk Short Course)”.
Time:
- Duration – 1.5 hours
- Departures – 10:30AM and 1:30PM
- Season – June to March (not available from April to May)
Price: ¥9,000 for anyone 7 and up. There is also an additional fee for an English guide. Payment is made in-person and is cash only.
Parking: There’s parking by the Lake Akan Ainu Theater Ikor or in the Lake Akan Ainu Kotan area
Booking: There is a booking form from the Forest Time experience page.
Language: If you’re booking through the English page, you’ll receive an English-speaking guide who will most likely be Kengo-san, the Ainu guide we had.
Website: Anytime, Ainutime!
FAQ:
- Are children under 7 allowed on the tour? No, only visitors 7 and up are permitted.
- How far in advance do you need to book? At a minimum, you need to book 10 days in advance but it’s a good idea to book 1-2 months in advance especially if you need an English guide.
- How challenging is the walk? The walk can be categorized as easy. While the walk is through the unpaved forest, it is relatively flat.
- Is there a minimum or maximum group size? Tours require a minimum of 2 people and the largest size is 10 people.
- Is this a private tour? No, it isn’t explicitly a private tour but if you’re lucky, you might be the only ones booking that particular time slot.
Tips:
- It’s worth reading a bit more about the Ainu whether it’s on Wikipedia or this BBC article, before your trip so you’ll be able to ask more questions on the tour.
- The starting location of the tour is at the Lake Akan Ainu Theater Ikor.
After your guided nature walk, you’ll have an opportunity to explore the various handicraft shops that line the main strip of Lake Akan Ainu Kotan.
On the same street is a restaurant called Poronno, where you’ll be able to try traditional Ainu dishes for lunch.
In the afternoon, you’ll be able to see more examples of volcanic activity in the region by taking a walk behind the Akankohan Eco-museum Center to something called a bokke.
This is the remains of a small crater near the lake where volcanic gases are gently released, creating bubbles in the mud. They’re not as active as what you’ll find in the north island of New Zealand but an interesting feature nonetheless.
You’ll settle in at Hotel Akankoso right along the lake, where you’ll have time to enjoy the sunset and the onsen.
After dinner at the hotel, you’ll head back to the Lake Akan Ainu Theater Ikor to watch a show transformative performance called Lost Kamuy that tells the story of the Ezo wolf, also revered as the Ainu god (kamuy) of hunting, that was driven to extinction. It’s a touching reminder of the importance of living in nature with harmony.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Duration: 40 minutes
Showtimes:
- May to June: 9:15PM and 3PM (weekends and national holidays only)
- July to October – 3PM and 9:15PM
- November to January – 9:15PM and 3PM (weekends and national holidays only)
Price: ¥2,200 for adults and ¥700 for children 6-12. Children 5 and under are free.
Parking: There are plenty of parking spaces by the Lake Akan Ainu Theater Ikor.
Booking: You can book the tickets online.
Language: The show is in Japanese but it’s relatively easy to interpret based on the visuals and performance.
Website: Lost Kamuy
FAQ:
- Is photography allowed? No, you are not allowed to take photos or videos.
- How far in advance do you need to buy tickets? You can purchase tickets online through Klook but it’s usually quite easy to purchase tickets on the day of, at the theatre.
Day 7 Summary
What you’ll do:
Where you’ll eat:
- Breakfast – Gasthof Papilio – Matching the theme of the guesthouse, you’ll have Western-style breakfast which includes freshly-baked bread, a quiche, salad, and sausage.
- Lunch – Poronno – A locally owned restaurant that serves authentic Ainu dishes.
- Dinner – Hotel Akankoso – This is the restaurant in the hotel and offers a full Japanese kaiseki course.
Where you’ll stay:
- Hotel Akankoso (Agoda) – When you read the reviews, you’ll see that this property is a classic Japanese hotel with both Japanese and Western-style rooms with great Lake Akan views, a beautiful onsen, delicious dinner, and is so convenient, being right by the boat pier.
Special Deal with Hokkaido Treasure Island
We’ve also partnered with Hokkaido Treasure Island where you’ll get a bottle of regional sake if mention us when you book.
How? Select “Going Awesome Places” under “How did you hear about us?” in the inquiry form.
Day 8 – Kushiro-Shitsugen National Park
Today is a deep dive into the third national park that you’ll get to see on this 9 day Far East Hokkaido itinerary, Kushiro-Shitsugen National Park. As Japan’s largest marshland, it can be tricky to see on land but you’ll get to visit two locations that will show you what makes this area so special.
A common way to see the national park is to go to the Kushiro Marsh Observatory. It provides a great panoramic view but it is often quite packed with people.
We think that the better way is to enter the wetland’s inner sanctum by hiking to Cape Kirakotan. This a highly protected zone that very few get to see and requires special permission to enter (something Adventure Hokkaido has). By entering on foot, you’ll be able to connect with the natural rhythms of the landscape.
From here, you’ll be able to get a deep look at the meandering capillary wetland rivers that weave through the national park. You’ll also learn about the many remnants of human activity that have been found in this area and how this was the first place that the red-crowned crane was discovered again after they were thought to have gone extinct.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Time: This is a 4km round trip hike that takes 3.5 hours to complete.
Price: As part of Adventure Hokkaido’s 9 day itinerary, this would be included. There are also Japanese companies that offer guided tours for ¥7,000 – ¥8,000 per adult. This runs from April 27 to November 30 (exact dates may change year to year).
FAQ:
- Are there bathrooms? There is a washroom right at the entrance of the trail but you won’t find any past this point.
- Can you do the Cape Kirakotan hike on your own? This area isn’t open to the general public. The only way to do this hike is through special permissions from the Agency for Cultural Affairs.
- How can you obtain permission to visit Cape Kirakotan? The only way to obtain permission is by contacting the Kushiro Village Board of Education (TEL 0154-64-2050).
- When is the best time to do this hike? The best time is in the spring season when the flowers are blooming and in the autumn with the changing of the leaves.
Tips:
- Brown bears inhabit this area which is another reason why you’ll be glad to have a guide with you.
- As a marshland, be prepared for muddy conditions and mosquitoes.
After your off-the-beaten-path hike, get picked up and head to your lunch spot, Heart’n Tree Farm Cottage. Using local ingredients, produce from their own farm and incorporating their freshly-baked goods and homemade cheeses, you’re in for a treat.
In the afternoon, you’ll find a different way to access the national park. This time, you’ll be entering in from Onnenai Visitor Center. This will give you an excellent overview of wetland and the wildlife that inhabit it.
From here, you’ll set walk the boardwalk loop that takes you into the wetland itself.
At first, a boardwalk doesn’t sound too impressive. After all, you’ve walked many wooden walkways so far. However, when you reach the point in the walk where you get to push a pole as far as you can below the boardwalk, you realize how deep the marsh goes and the work that was put into creating this path.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Time: The boardwalk itself doesn’t have specific hours and can be visited at any time.
- Visitor Center Hours: April to October 9AM – 5PM, November to March 9AM – 4PM (closed Tuesdays and 12/29-1/3)
- Duration – Roughly 1 hour to do the full loop around the boardwalk.
Price: Free
Parking: There is a large (free) parking lot along Prefectural Route 53.
Language: Most signage in the visitor center and around the boardwalk area are in both Japanese and English.
Website: Onnenai Visitor Center
FAQ:
- What can you see from the boardwalk? Depending on the season, you’ll see a variety of flowers such as Japanese honeysuckle, cottontail, rhododendron, and tokisou. Wildlife-wise, you’ll see wild birds and woodland birds such as the red-headed woodpecker. In the wetlands, your bincoluars might be able to spot red-crowned cranes and deer in the distance. From July to August, you can see Heike fireflies.
- Is the walk wheel-chair accessible? The boardwalk is barrier-free and fully accessible. That said, there are steps going from the parking lot to the visitor center so they recommend that you contact them in advance to allow you to drive right to the visitor center. They also rent wheelchairs free of charge.
Tips:
- For those that aren’t able to do Cape Kirakotan, this is your best way to see the Kushiro Wetland on foot.
- The wetland area is vast so you’ll find wildlife spotting to be quite challenging with the naked eye. Make sure to bring your binoculars or zoom lenses for this walk.
- They have QR codes set up around the boardwalk but if you want to get a head start, you can download the English version of the field guide.
For your final night, you’ll be staying at Hotel Taito located in Tsurui in Far East Hokkaido. This is a popular hotel and often a home base for those wanting to see red-crowned cranes in the winter.
While Hotel Taito’s dinner and breakfast are both excellent, what you’ll really love is their onsen. The best part are the outdoor pools for men and women.
Day 8 Summary
What you’ll do:
Where you’ll eat:
- Breakfast – Hotel Akankoso – This is a typical Japanese breakfast buffet with a wide selection of food.
- Lunch – Heart’n Tree Farm Cottage – Accommodations that also has quite the charming Western-style restaurant that specializes in using their home-grown ingredients, freshly-baked goods, and homemade cheeses.
- Dinner – Hotel Taito – In the lobby of the hotel is their main restaurant where they serve an amazing spread of food that for us included sashimi, tempura, Japanese hot pot, pork, soba, and soft serve using fresh milk from the town the hotel is in.
Where you’ll stay:
- Hotel Taito – A relatively large hotel that has a bit of the German/Swiss design that has surprisingly spacious rooms (some with a loft second level accessed by ladder). Make sure to visit their outdoor onsen, which is absolutely wonderful.
Day 9 – Farewell To The Far East
As you count all of the wildlife sightings, marvellous vistas, great hikes, new friends, and new connection with Ainu and Japanese culture, you’ll realize that you’ve had quite the epic 9 days in Far East Hokkaido.
Packing up your things, and having your last breakfast at Hotel Taito, before making your way to either the Kushiro train station or the Kushiro airport.
Say your goodbyes and you’ll be on to the next part of your trip through Japan, your next country, or making your way home.
Day 9 Summary
What you’ll do:
- Transit to your next destination
Map of Far East Hokkaido Itinerary
The below is an interactive Google Map that’ll help you visualize exactly where you get to go to in this Far East Hokkaido itinerary. We always create these maps for our readers because it helps with trip planning and also when you’re actually there, you can use it to help navigate as well.
HOW TO USE THE MAP: You can use the map as is but if you’d like to do more with it, expand the map and create a copy in your logged-in Google account. With this copy, you’ll be able to access it in your Google Maps app under the Saved tab. Scroll to the bottom and look for the “Maps” circle.
Our Experience Traveling with Adventure Hokkaido
As much as I would’ve loved to have done this fully independently, in retrospect, I am so glad that I was able to travel through Far East Hokkaido with Adventure Hokkaido.
Overall, I had an amazing time with Adventure Hokkaido who were incredibly professional, knowledgeable, and just fun to be with. The 9 day Far East Hokkaido itinerary is an awesome blend of outdoor activity, wildlife viewing, and cultural experiences.
It’s worth mentioning that we had two guides on our trip – Kazu and Yuka. This is the case when the group is closer to the maximum of 8 people. For smaller groups, it’s usually just 1. That said, having seen both of them work, I was very happy with both of their guiding skills.
Here are the big reasons why I loved traveling with Adventure Hokkaido:
- This region of Japan is challenging to book – While there are bits and pieces of it that can be booked online on your own, there are a significant number of accommodations, activities, and restaurants that can’t be booked unless you’re able to call and speak Japanese. As an example, many hotels aren’t on the major booking platforms such as Booking or Agoda. Many of the activities on this itinerary basically can’t be booked by someone that’s non-Japanese speaking and the same can be said for restaurants as well.
- Handling the unexpected – We encountered a mix of surprise scenarios such as heavy rain, poor weather cancelling cruises, and bears blocking hiking paths. Adventure Hokkaido’s guides were able to handle all of them by adapting the schedule and finding alternatives that the group was happy with. Knowing how this required making phone calls on-the-fly, this would have been impossible if we did this trip independently.
- Lost in translation – While there’s certainly something to be said for sometimes stumbling through Japan without speaking the language, it was also quite nice to have most of that taken off of our plate by being with a group tour.
- Your very own naturalists – With an itinerary that is so wildlife focused, it makes a difference to guided by people that can tell you about the animals that you’re seeing, the plant life that you’re walking by, and the ecosystem that surrounds you. They are also really good at spotting animals.
- Guides makes a difference – Beyond being English-speaking and knowledgable naturalists, the Adventure Hokkaido guides bring another layer to the experience as kind and friendly people, always willing to help and constantly seeking at ways to make the experience better. Plus, they can help take your photos too!
- Daily briefings – Every evening before or after dinner, the guides would walk through the next day’s plans and this was always helpful to help us pack for the next day.
- A comfortable pace – You’ll appreciate that this isn’t the kind of bus tour that has you rushing from one place to another. There’s a nice flow to the day, giving you time to move at comfortable pace, time to reflect and recharge (literally and figuratively), and most importantly, time to go to the onsen before dinner.
- Bear safety – When in the Shiretoko Peninsula, bear safety is a serious thing. While most of it comes down to a few basics, there’s additional layer of comfort when you’re with guides that have been professionally trained and are also equipped with bear spray.
Special Promotion with Adventure Hokkaido
If you book an Adventure Hokkaido, mention us and you’ll get an awesome buff or t-shirt.
How? Use the code GOINGAWESOMEPLACES when you fill out the form to put in an inquiry under the “Additional Information” field.
Now for those that are thinking about joining Adventure Hokkaido, here are a few tips that I think that would be helpful to know:
- The mini buses they use are quite comfortable and conveniently have a USB-A port on the seat in front of you which will allow you to charge your devices as you go. However, for smaller groups, we’ve been told that they use smaller 10-seater vans which are not equipped with USB chargers.
- As mentioned earlier, these are small group tours with a maximum of 8. For larger groups, they usually have two guides but for smaller groups, it’s just one.
- The onsens you will encounter in Far East Hokkaido are all traditional which means that they are separated by gender. In two cases, they have private onsens where you’ll be able to sign up for time slots (free) – Gasthof Papilio and Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko.
- For most of this itinerary, you’ll be changing hotels every night. It will make your life easier if you have a good organization system in your suitcase so you can quickly find what you need and you can pack up without any effort. That’s why we recommend packing cubes such as the ones from Peak Design.
- On the topic of packing, you’ll also want a good system of how you shift things between your day pack that you’ll with you on the bus and what goes into your suitcase which will be in the back of the bus. Every night, you’ll want to think about the type of things you need for the next day (i.e. binoculars, waterproof layers, etc.). If you don’t want to carry everything in your backpack every time you head off of the bus, a hack we have is to bring a packable tote by your seat or carabinered to the handle in front.
I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Adventure Hokkaido for anyone looking for a tour operator in Hokkaido.
As a heads up, it’s worth noting that the Japan’s Far East 9 Day Wildlife & Adventure Tour itinerary from Adventure Hokkaido is subject to change due to seasonality, weather, and group preferences. If you watch our YouTube Far East Hokkaido video, you’ll notice some differences in what we covered and that’s because we were on a slightly different version of the tour.
If you’re looking for something more custom, Hokkaido Treasure Island is another company we recommend that you check out. They specialize in creating highly curated itineraries for private groups and are known to have access to areas, activities, and individuals that other companies don’t have in Hokkaido.
5 Travel Tips for Far East Hokkaido
While we’ve covered many of the specific tips and tricks for different parts of the 9 day itinerary, there are a number of additional insights that’ll help you be better prepared.
1 – Dietary restrictions
From our group trip with Adventure Hokkaido, we noticed that it wasn’t always the easiest to accommodate dietary restrictions for guests. Restaurants will try their best but the truth is that they’re not equipped to handle special requests, especially in rural areas.
The advantage of travelling with a local guide company is that they can help figure out alternatives for you ahead of time instead of stumbling through restaurants. We’ll admit, the alternatives aren’t always the greatest in Japan but they’ll try their best.
2 – How to onsen
Your guide will walk you through the proper steps for using the onsen but it’s worth reading this guide on how to take an onsen bath.
You’ll quickly fall into a comfortable rhythm with onsens as it’ll basically be part of your daily bathing routine where you can either go to the onsen right before dinner or in the morning before breakfast.
Most ryokans you’ll be staying at also provide a yukata (Japanese bathrobe) and it’s perfectly acceptable to wear this to the breakfast and dinner.
3 – Zoom lens and binoculars
Wildlife viewing is a large part of this itinerary so make sure you pack a zoom lens for the camera you’re bringing or a good pair of binoculars.
In most cases, the bears, whales, deer, and birds won’t be close to you so you’ll want the reach of a good lens or binoculars to see them.
If you’re travelling with Adventure Hokkaido, the guides will have a pair that you’ll be able to use but they won’t have one for everyone so we recommend bringing your own if you want to see.
What do we recommend? If you shoot with OM System like we do (make sure to read why micro four thirds is the perfect travel camera system), the 40-150mm or 150-400mm lenses are excellent. For other systems, the 70-200mm full-frame equivalent range is what you’re looking for. For binoculars, we’re a big fan of Celestron TrailSeeker 8×42 Binoculars because they’re a good balance of quality, magnification, and price point.
4 – Bring cash
As much as people will tell you that you can get by with simply credit cards in Japan, they’re lying. Whether it’s a big city like Tokyo or the small towns you’ll be visiting in Eastern Hokkaido with this itinerary, there are plenty of shops that are still cash-only.
Also, it’s worth noting that we discovered that many point of sales systems in Japan aren’t compatible with credit card contactless payment (both physical and digital wallet). Don’t expect to be able to tap with your credit card everywhere you go.
5 – Prepare for changes in weather
Hokkaido in the non-winter season can be quite fickle where you can encounter a wide range of weather. and you don’t want to be caught of guard.
- Spring (March to May) – Things start warming up but expect it to be chilly when out of the sun. Layering is key.
- Summer (June – August) – With lack of humidity, summers are quite pleasant and can be enjoyed with t-shirts and shorts. That said, once the sun goes down, it can get a bit chilly so a light jacket is always a good idea.
- Fall (September – November) – September is the wettest month of the year and earlier in the season, you’ll definitely want extra layers in case the cold sweeps in. From October onwards, you’ll definitely want to think about more winter-oriented clothing.
In addition to overall Hokkaido weather, remember a few distinct things from this itinerary:
- You’ll be out on the open water for the bear and whale watching cruises so it will be windy and can get cold.
- You’ll also be doing 2 separate paddling trips. While the chances of you getting wet will be low, if it’s mosquito season, you’ll want to stay covered up and you’ll want to use good repellent. You’ll also want to keep your things dry so a good 5L dry bag should be in your suitcase.
- Similarly, you’ll be walking through wetland areas that could get buggy.
- Even outside of September, rain could hit at anytime so we suggest having waterproof layers in case. For us, we always travel with an Arc’teryx shell and light waterproof pants.
How Much Did This Trip Cost
To give you an idea of how much you’ll spend on these 9 days, here’s a table of my expenses from the trip.
You’ll notice that most of the money was put into the tour itself which was inclusive of all meals, accommodations, activities, and transportation. The additional costs came from more discretionary spending for things like snacks and gifts.
Category | Amount (JPY) |
---|---|
Tour | ¥531,000 |
Food | ¥8,346 |
Laundry | ¥500 |
Souvenirs | ¥3,270 |
Tips | ¥9,425 |
TOTAL | ¥552,541 |
Using exchange rates from the date of publishing, this comes out to $3,879 USD and a daily spend of $431 USD/day.
Tips aren’t expected in Japan but since Kazu and Yuka were so great, our group decided to pitch in together for a gift.
As a point of comparison, per person, our 1 month in Chile averaged out to $308 USD/day, 3 weeks in New Zealand was $353 USD/day, and 10 days in Egypt was $204 USD/day. This means that this is certainly more expensive than other trips we’ve done.
Closing Thoughts On 9 Days In Far East Hokkaido
The one thought that kept repeating over and over on this trip was “Wow, I never expected Japan to look like this.” Japan isn’t all skyscrapers, 4-way pedestrian crossings, shrines, and Shinkansens. This quiet corner of Hokkaido is truly nature at its finest.
If you were to ask us what was the best part of seeing this region on Hokkaido, we’d pick out these 3 experiences.
Close wildlife encounters – Wildlife is rarely at the top of the list when planning a trip to Japan so you can imagine our surprise when you’d have brown bears one day, sperm whales another, and then the near-extinct red-crowned cranes serendipitously on the side of the road.
Understanding onsen culture – Nearly every single accommodation we stayed at had an onsen and since we had the guidance of our guides from Adventure Hokkaido, we quickly caught on that onsen culture is really engrained in Japanese culture, effectively replacing showering in your room before you have dinner.
Dynamic landscape – There was such a diversity in ecosystems that we got to explore. From the wetlands to dramatic coastline, sandspits, and barren moon-lake volcanoes, you realize that the Far East of Hokkaido has a little bit of everything – not at all what you expect when you think about Japan.
Through this adventure in the Far East of Hokkaido, we got to see how truly special this corner of Japan is. If you’re an outdoor and wildlife lover, you NEED to come here.
Frequently Asked Questions
The best times to go to Far East Hokkaido are in the spring and autumn for the reason that this is when you’ll be able to see flowers bloom or the fiery fall colors. Also, since the whale watching cruise season ends mid-October and Shiretoko Pass closes at the end of October, we wouldn’t recommend doing this itinerary during the winter season.
The appeal of Far East Hokkaido comes in the fact that it is a wild frontier of nature, wildlife, and the Ainu culture. Travellers come here because they want to be able to see a different side to Japan and go to a place that allows you to enjoy the outdoors uninterrupted.
Other than driving on the left side, the roads are very easy to navigate in Eastern Hokkaido simply because there aren’t that many people in the region.
Alternatively called The Convention on Wetlands of International Importance, this was signed in Ramsar, Iran in 1971 and is an international agreement promoting the conservation and wise use of wetlands. Visiting two wetlands in Hokkaido, this is why the Ramsar Convention is brought up numerous times.
When compared to the rest of Japan, this part of Hokkaido isn’t necessarily more expensive. The food is reasonably priced, accommodations are affordable, and activities are often cheaper than they are in other countries. Most of your spend will go to the the guided tour. Expect to spend roughly $400 USD/day per person.
What you should read next
Travel Resources For Your Next Trip
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